The Art of Colouring and Lightening Hair

1 Understand the process of colouring hair

Explain the contra-indications that prevent or restrict the application of a hair colour

• Prevent
  
  • Severe allergic reactions (known allergy or reaction to patch test)
  • Scalp infection
  • Open wounds or cuts on the scalp
  • Severe skin conditions (colour could exasperate condition)
  • Medications or medical treatments
    
    • Chemotherapy, radiotherapy, medications that impact skin sensitivity
• Restrict
  
  • Mild allergic reactions
  • Sensitive or irritated scalp
  • Damaged or over-processed hair: hair may be weakened or damaged, perms, relaxers, straightening treatments, recent colour treatment
  • Pregnancy and/or breastfeeding: could affect the foetus or be absorbed through the skin during breastfeeding, consult with the healthcare provider first, hair will behave differently due to changes in hormones
  • Young age: children and young people could have more sensitive skin, skin and hair are still developing
  • Sensitive skin
  • Henna or metallic dyes: could interact with colour products

Safety considerations that must be taken into account when colouring and lightening hair:

• Skin sensitivity and allergic reactions
  
  • Patch tests should be done to gauge reactions and ensure full service will not cause reactions.
• Quality of products
  
  • High quality products tend to contain fewer harmful ingredients.
  • Quality products often offer better colour results, minimising the need for repeat applications that can weaken hair.
• Following manufacturer instructions
  
  • Following these instructions ensures the colour develops correctly, reducing the risk of over-processing, scalp irritation, or unexpected results.
• Avoid direct contact with the scalp
  
  • Direct contact with the scalp can cause irritation, burns or chemical reactions.
• Hair condition
  
  • Damaged, dry, or brittle hair is more susceptible to breakage and over-processing, so adjustments to product strength or processing time may be necessary to protect the hair’s integrity.
• Overlapping with existing colours
  
  • Re-applying colour or bleach over previously treated areas can lead to uneven colour, excessive dryness, or damage.
• Moisturise and condition
  
  • Conditioning and moisturising treatments before and after colouring help maintain hair’s elasticity and shine.
  • Proper hydration helps counteract the drying effects of chemical processes, leaving hair healthier and more manageable.
• Barrier creams
  
  • Barrier creams applied around the hairline prevent colour from staining the skin and minimise irritation.
  • Crucial for client comfort and a clean, professional finish.
• Ensure adequate ventilation
  
  • Prevents the buildup of fumes from products, which can cause health issues such as headaches and breathing problems.
• Eye protection
  
  • Hair colour and related products can cause server eye damage.
• Clean environments
  
  • Reduces the risk of contamination or cross-contamination.
• Hair first aid kit nearby
  
  • Allows for a quick reaction if any accidents do occur.
• Continuous education
  
  • Continuous education also builds confidence and ensures compliance with health and safety standards.
• Client aware of risks (informed consent)
  
  • Clients need to be aware of the risks of any service to ensure they are able to make an informed choice.

Products used to colour hair

• Permanent hair colour: penetrates the hair shaft and alters natural pigment, contains ammonia and oxidative, is long-lasting, covers grey hair effectively, and can cause damage due to ammonia.
• Semi-permanent hair colour: coats hair shaft without penetrating deeply, fades over time with shampooing, little to no ammonia, uses direct dyes or non-oxidative pigments, more gentle on hair, ideal for enhancing hair or trying new shades, requires more frequent application, less effective in covering grey hair.
• Demi-permanent hair colour: blends with natural hair colour, lasts longer than semi- permanent but not as long as permanent, low levels of ammonia or substitutes like ethanolamine and uses oxidative dyes, adds shine and enhances natural hair colour, less damaging than permanent but can cause dryness or texture change.
• Temporary hair colour: deposits colour on the surface of the hair shaft, provides instant colour, can be washed out easily, versatile, allows experimentation, can transfer to clothing or bedding, not suitable for extreme lighting, does not lift colour.
• Bleach or lightener: strips away natural or artificial pigment, strong chemicals like ammonia and hydrogen peroxide, need for dramatic colour changes, can cause damage if not used correctly, requires monitoring and conditioning.
• Developer: oxidising agent, activates the hair colour by allowing the dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft, different strengths available.
• Toner: products used to add colour, additional can be used after bleaching to neutralise unwanted tones or change tones.
• Colour enhancers: enhance colours.

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Colouring techniques

• All over colour: a single process applies a single uniform colour all over the head, which can be done with permanent, semi-permanent, or demi-permanent.
• Highlights: lighten small sections to create contrast.
  
  • Foil highlights, balayage, (baby lights).
• Lowlights: adding darker sections to create depth and dimension.
• Ombre: gradual transition from a darker root colour to a lighter shade at the ends.
• Sombre: a more subtle version of ombre with less contrast between the root and end colours.
• Balayage: freehand painting of colour onto the hair to create a natural, blended look.
• Baby lights: ultra-fine highlights that are delicately placed to mimic the natural highlights seen in young children’s hair.
• Foilyage: a combination of foil highlights and balayage.
• Root shadowing: applying a slightly darker colour at the roots to create a natural shadow and blend regrowth with lighter ends.
• Colour melting: blending multiple shades together so that one colour melts seamlessly into the next.
• Hair contouring: strategic placement of colour to enhance or alter the appearance of the face shape.
• Fantasy colours: vibrant, non-traditional colours such as pink, blue, purple, and green.
• Glazing: applying a semi-permanent colour or gloss to add shine and refresh the faded colour.
• Double process: involves two separate colouring processes, typically lightening the hair first and then applying the desired colour.
  
  • Triple process: involves three processes, pre-lightening, further lightening, and then applying final colour, used to achieve significant transformations. Can be more damaging to hair, so it would need to be observed closely.
• Root touch-up: applying colour to the root area to match the rest of the hair. 
• Colour correction: adjusting or correcting undesired hair colour results from previous colouring.

Factors that need to be considered when colouring and lightening hair:

• Porosity
  
  • Highly porosity hair absorbs colour quickly but also loses it faster.
    
    • May need additional conditioning treatment to ensure colour lasts.
  • Low porosity hair could resist colour absorption.
    
    • May require a stronger developer or pre-treatment to improve colour results.
• Texture
  
  • Fine hair process faster.
    
    • Processes faster due to the small diameter of the hair shaft.
    • Often absorbs the pigment faster.
    • May appear darker than intended.
    • A lower-strength formula or reduced processing time may be required to avoid over-processing.
  • Coarse hair may require more time and a stronger formula because it can resist colour absorption.
  • May require more than a single process to achieve the required colour or shade.
• Density
  
  • Thickness and volume of hair can affect application technique and processing time.
    
    • High-density hair (thicker, fuller hair) may require sectioning to ensure even colour application throughout all strands, which can increase the time needed for application.
    • Thicker sections may require more time to fully absorb colour, particularly when applying highlights or balayage techniques.
• Health of hair
  
  • Damaged hair may absorb colour unevenly
    
    • Over-processed areas often turn darker or lighter than intended.
  • Hair health influences the need for conditioning or bond-building treatments before, during, and after colouring to maintain strength and resilience, especially when lightening or bleaching is involved.
• Existing colour
  
  • Influences outcome and technique
    
    • Darker or previously coloured hair often requires pre-lightening to achieve lighter shades.
    • Lifting old colours can create warm tones or require corrective treatments before the desired shade can be achieved.
• Desired result
  
  • Colour choice
    
    • Brighter colours require a lighter base.
    • Subtle changes require only semi-permanent colour.
  • Level of lift 
    
    • The level of lift (lightening required) affects the processing time and developer strength; more lift requires stronger formulations and may need a double process.
  • Tone
  • Desired tones, like cool or warm shades, require specific toners to neutralise unwanted tones that naturally appear during the colouring process.
• Chemical history
  
  • Previous treatments
    
    • Prior chemical treatments like relaxing, perming, or previous colouring can make hair more porous or prone to uneven results, often requiring special conditioning or protein treatments.
  • Metallic salts and henna
    
    • Some products, particularly metallic salts or henna, can react unpredictably with new colour formulas, potentially causing unexpected results or uneven colour.
• Scalp condition
  
  • Sensitivity
    
    • A sensitive scalp may require a gentler formula or a milder developer, particularly when applying bleach or ammonia-based products to avoid irritation.
  • Allergies
    
    • Knowledge of allergies is essential, as some clients may react to chemicals in dye, requiring allergy testing or alternative products for a safe application.
• Timings
  
  • Each hair type, colour choice, and formula has an ideal processing time that needs to be monitored closely to avoid over-processing or under-developing the colour.
  • Achieving significant changes, such as from dark to blonde, may require multiple timed applications to achieve the desired result while maintaining hair health.
• Developer strength
  
  • The strength of the developer (measured in volume) determines how much lift can be achieved, with higher volumes providing more lift but potentially more damage if misused.
  • The strength of the developer (measured in volume) determines how much lift can be achieved, with higher volumes providing more lift but potentially more damage if misused.
• Environmental factors
  
  • Weather and Humidity
    
    • Environmental factors like humidity and temperature can affect colour processing, potentially speeding up or slowing down the process.
  • Exposure to Sun and Pollution
    
    • Frequent exposure to sun and pollution can fade colour quickly, particularly in lighter shades, requiring specific products to maintain vibrancy.
• Client preferences
  
  • Commitment 
    
    • The client’s willingness to maintain their colour impacts the choice of colour; for example, high-maintenance shades like platinum blonde require frequent touch-ups.
  • Budget
    
    • Budget considerations can influence the colour and process chosen, as more intensive treatments or multi-step processes may be costlier.

Effects that colouring and lightening products have on the hair structure

• Cuticle layer: opening the cuticle layer, can cause cuticle to remain raised (causes rough, porous, and more vulnerable hair)
• Cortex: penetration of dyes can result in alteration of protein structures, melanin breakdown can weaken protein structure
• Limited impact to medulla
• Increased porosity
• Texture changes
• Loss in moisture
• Chemical irritation of scalp
• Allergic reactions
• Cumulative damage
• Faster colour fading if used long term
  
  • Over use of colour can decrease porosity causing faster colour fading

How the international colour chart is used to select colour

• Levels: level 1 is black, level 10 is lightest blonde
• Tone: each level has various tones or hues
• Numbering system
  
  • First number is level
  • Second number is tone
• Need to determine natural hair level and undertones
• Discuss desired with client colour and match it to international colour chart (ICC)
• Use ICC to guide formulation
• Use colour to neutralise unwanted tones and enhance desired tones
• Use ICC to create a custom colour
• Use ICC to guide processing time

Reasons for pre‑lightening:

• Achieve a lighter shade
• Remove previous colour
• Neutralise undertones
• Even colour applications
• Enhancing colour vibrancy
• Create special effects
• Grey hair blending
• Create depth and dimension of hair

Importance of restoring the hairs pH after colouring:

• Neutralise alkaline products
  
  • Hair colourings are often alkaline but hair is naturally acidic
• Closing the cuticle
  
  • Alkali raises the cuticle scales making hair rough and prone to damage
• Lock in colour 
  
  • Sealing the cuticle helps to lock in colour
• Minimise damage
• Prevent breakage
• Scalp health
  
  • Scalp is naturally acidic
• To complete the colour process
  
  • Stops the colour treatment at the current stage

2 Be able to colour a range of hair types

Hair and skin analysis: conversation with clients, visual inspection, scalp- inspection, touch test (elasticity, porosity, hydration levels).

Protecting a client's clothing:

• Use salon capes or aprons
• Secure towels (cover shoulders, secure with clips)
• Protective wraps and foils (wrap around neck, secure with tap)
• Disposable neck strips
• Disposable capes or smocks
• Communicate prior to appointment
• Ensure covering remain during treatment
• Remove carefully after treatment

How to prepare colour products

• Collect supplies and tools
  
  • Colour formula
  • Developer
  • Missing bowl
  • Measuring tool
  • Brush applicator
  • Sectioning comb
  • Sectioning clips
  • Cotton wool if needed (restrict bleeding and protects client face)
• Follow manufacturer instructions
• Mix colour and developer
  
  • Measure correctly
  • Add developer
  • Stir thoroughly
• Check consistency and colour
• Adjust as needed
• Keep record of formula used for each client
• Use immediately.

Safely performing a colour service:

• Follow manufacturer instructions
• Avoid direct contact with scalp
• Assess hair condition
• Avoid overlapping with existing colours
• Ensure adequate ventilation
• Wear eye protection
• Clean environments 
• Hair first aid kit nearby
• Continuous education

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How to perform a patch test: prepare test materials, choose test area, clean test area, apply test mixture, allow to dry, observe and wait (24-48 hours, product could be washed off after 24 hours but continue to monitor for reaction for additional 24 hours), monitor for reactions, evaluate results, record results.

How to prepare hair for colour session: gather supplies, clean (if needed, avoid heavy conditioners) and dry hair, detangle hair, section hair.

Pre-lightening hair: select appropriate products for intended results, prepare bleach materials, use immediately, protective measures (gloves, protective cape), section and prepare hair, apply bleach (start at ends, gradually move up, use applicator brush, avoid scalp), monitor processing time, rinse out bleach.

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Highlight techniques

• Foil method: take thin sections of hair and place a piece of foil underneath, apply the lightener or bleach evenly to the section, ensuring saturation from roots to ends.
• Freehand method or balayage: apply the lightener or bleach to select strands or sections using an applicator brush, blending gently for a natural, sun-kissed effect.
• Flamboyage: place transparent adhesive strip under section of hair, apply product, fold strip.
• Cap highlights: place cap on head, use hook to pull strands of hair through cap holes, apply product to pulled through hair.

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Monitoring treatment times: follow instructions, use a timer, check regularly, visual assessment, test strands, client feedback, adjust time based on hair type, consider environmental factors, maintain records for future reference, prioritise health and safety of client’s hair.

How to restore pH after colouring: pH-balanced shampoos and conditioners, acidic rinses, post- colour treatments, leave-in conditioner and serum.

3 Understand colour correction

Products used in colour correction

• Colour removers: designed to strip out artificial pigments.
• Bleach or lightener: removes previous artificial colour, lighten natural pigment of hair.
• Toning products: neutralise unwanted tones.
• Direct dyes: intense often vibrant colours.
• Colour filler: restore missing underlying pigments.
• Conditioning treatments: restore moisture and nourishment to hair.
• Colour protection products: maintain longevity and vibrancy.

Factors that need to be considered when correcting hair colour: current hair condition, previous hair history, desired outcome, identify undesirable tones or shades, use colour theory, product selection, timing and processing, technique and applications, client expectations and communication, post-colour care, risk of damage, document process.

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How to use pre‑softening and pre‑pigmenting during a colour correction service:

• Pre-softening: assess hair conditions, choice of product, apply pre-softener (section hair, apply to damp or dry hair, ensure saturation, even application), following instructions on processing time, monitor effectiveness, rinse out, (if needed) dry hair.
• Pre-pigmentation: select shade (demi-permanent or semi-permanent), mix colour, apply colour (section hair, apply to hair, ensure saturation, even application), allow to process, monitor development, rinse, prepare for colour application.

Techniques to remove artificial colour:

• Clarifying shampoo: remove product build-up and some semi-permanent hair colours.
• Bleach bath: lightens colour, break downs artificial pigment.
• Colour removers: formulated to remove artificial colour.
• Bleach and tone: bleach followed by tone used for more stubborn or darker artificial colours.
• Combination of techniques
• Correct strength hydrogen peroxide for correcting different hair colour problems:
• Covering grey hair: 10 volume (3%) to 20 volume (6%).
• Lightening natural hair colour: 20 volume (6%) to 30 volume (9%).
• Lifting previously coloured hair: 30 volume (9%) to 40 volume (12%).
• Colour correction: varies according to method used, typically 20 volume to 40 volume.

4 Be able to colour-correct

Determining clients concerns about current colour: conversation, specific questions (tones that bother the client, change in shade, depth or vibrancy), examine hair, review inspiration images, inquire about previous treatments, consider skin tone, lifestyle considerations, set realistic expectations, offer recommendations, document details, review plan before start.

Safely performing a colour-correction: assess current hair health, strand test, select method based on strand test, prepare products, section hair, apply products, monitor processing time, rinse thoroughly, neutralise if needed, tone if necessary, apply deep conditioner, provide aftercare, wear gloves, protect clients skin and clothing, prioritise hair and integrity of hair, ensure client comfort.

Monitoring colour correction process: consider initial hair condition, visual assessment, manufacturer instructions, client communication.

5 Understand the aftercare and maintenance following a colouring appointment

Importance of completing a treatment to the satisfaction of the client: repeat business, loyalty, retention, positive word of mouth, recommendations, testimonies, professional reputation, trust, credibility, client confidence, client comfort, revenue, growth, continuous improvement, personal connection, customisation, quality assurance, consistency.

Treatment records:

• Content: medical history, contra-indications, past treatments, responses to treatments, concerns during treatment, feedback from treatments.
• Importance: customised treatments, consistency, professional image, client confidence, legal protection, track progress, inventory management, client preferences, targeted promotion, training and development, feedback.

Aftercare advice that is required to be provided following a colour treatment: wait before washing, use colour safe products, avoid hot water, avoid over washing, regular deep conditioning, UV protection, heat protection, avoid chlorine and saltwater, trim regularly, avoid overlapping colour treatments, consultation for touch-ups, monitor hair health.

6 Be able to demonstrate post-treatment actions

Ascertain client satisfaction levels

• Spoken feedback at end of session: open-ended questions, active listening, accepting criticism, openness.
• Follow-up feedback requests: surveys, emails, follow-up discussion, reviews.

Methods to advise client of maintenance and aftercare:

• Verbal guidance
• Printed guidance
• Email guidance 
• Links to helpful resources
• Follow-up communication
• Warnings about not following advice
• Accessibility requirements for advice
  
  • Large print
  • Language usage (clarity, speed)
• Ensuring understanding

Disposing of waste in an environmentally friendly manner: hazardous waste (chemical, biohazards), recycling, following salon process, follow legal requirements.