Competency Based Qualification

Hair Extensions

Advanced Diploma in Hairdressing

Unit Aim

On successful completion: Learners are equipped with the ability to apply theoretical and technical aspects of hair extensions. Learners gain an informed awareness of a range of hair extension application techniques.

Unit Content

1 Understand the process of preparing for a hairdressing appointment

Salon requirements for preparing self, the client and the work area

  • Self: personal hygiene, personal appearance, grooming, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), mental readiness, focus, knowledge and skills
  • Work area: workplace organisation, sanitisation, sterilisation, availability of tools, stock controls, ambience, accessibility of space, emergency procedures
  • Client:
    • Seating, privacy, personal belongings, cleaning client, protective covering
    • Importance of an accurate and detailed consultation with the client: personal preferences, goals, expectations, medical history, contra-indications, skin and hair analysis, personalisation of treatments, professional relationship, communication, product selection, clarifying limitations, enhancing client satisfaction, client experience, client retention, informed consent, professional standards, baseline assessment, track progress, adjust treatments.
    • Importance of consulting treatment history: identifying contra-indications, avoiding adverse reactions (allergies, irritation), customised care, consistency, building trust and rapport, record keeping, accountability, tracking progress, enhancing treatment outcomes, preventing treatment overlap.
    • Importance of hair and skin analysis: understand hair type, determine hair condition, product selection, identify any disorders, optimise treatment, determine skin condition, avoid irritants, preventive care, and individualised care.

The process of selecting hair for extensions

  • Assess natural hair: texture, density, health
  • Determine goals: length, volume, style, colour
  • Human hair extensions
    • Looks natural
    • Can be styled with heat
    • Can be coloured
    • Tends to last longer
    • More expensive
  • Synthetic hair extensions
    • More affordable
    • Pre-styled
    • Available in various colours
    • May not be heat friendly
    • May not blend as seamlessly
    • Shorter lifespan
  • Ethical sourcing
  • Quality of hair

Contra-indications that prevent or restrict the application of hair extensions

  • Prevent
    • Active scalp infections
      • Could pass to others through tools used on the head.
    • Sever dermatitis or psoriasis
      • Extensions can worsen symptoms and cause discomfort.
      • Extensions could damage the skin.
    • Alopecia
      • Can lead to strain and hair follicles, which can result in hair loss.
    • Chemical damage
      • Chemically damaged hair can be fragile and brittle. Extensions may cause further breakage and damage.
    • Breakage-prone hair
      • Applying extensions can place excessive tension on weakened strands, causing the natural hair to snap or become even more fragile.
    • Adhesive reactions
      • Allergies or sensitivities to adhesives used in hair extensions, such as glue or bonding agents, can lead to severe irritation, itching, or even contact dermatitis, making extensions unsuitable.
    • Material sensitivity
      • Some individuals may have sensitivities to synthetic hair materials, metals, or other components used in extensions, which can cause allergic reactions or scalp discomfort, making it unsafe to apply extensions.
  • Restrict
    • Mild dermatitis
      • Will need to be careful with materials used.
      • Gentle, hypoallergenic adhesives or methods that don’t directly touch the scalp (like clip-ins) may be necessary to prevent irritation.
    • Dandruff
      • Can make maintenance of extensions challenging. 
      • Bonded or taped-in extensions do not allow for frequent scalp treatments.
      • Additional care is required to avoid irritation and buildup.
    • Moderate hair damage
      • Gentler methods, such as clip-ins or non-adhesive extensions, are advisable to reduce strain on the hair.
    • Thin hair
      • Certain extension methods, such as heavy or bulky types, can weigh down and damage the natural hair.
      • Lightweight, low-tension methods like micro-links or hand-tied extensions may be recommended for better results.
    • High-activity lifestyle
      • May make it difficult to maintain extensions.
      • Some extension methods may restrict hair movement or require special care to prevent damage from sweat and frequent washing.
    • Inability to keep up with maintenance
      • Extensions require regular maintenance, including touch-ups and special care routines.
      • If a client cannot commit to this upkeep, extensions can lead to tangling, matting, and damage to both the extensions and natural hair.
    • Non-severe allergic reactions
      • Mild reactions to certain extension materials or adhesives may restrict the options available.
      • Using hypoallergenic materials or switching to temporary methods, like clip-in extensions, can minimise exposure and reduce the risk of reaction.
    • Workplace or school policies
      • Some workplaces or educational institutions have policies regarding appearance, which may limit the type, colour, or visibility of extensions.
      • Clients should consider these guidelines before choosing extensions to ensure compliance.

2 Be able to prepare for a hairdressing appointment

Clean workspace in line with salon requirements: PPE (gloves, masks, aprons), disinfectant, cleaning tools, sanitisation, surface cleaning, floor cleaning, toilets, clean chairs and stations, towels and linen, rubbish, and hand washing.

Clean tools to be used for the treatment: sterilisation, risk of cross-contamination, selection of appropriate tools and equipment, availability of equipment.

Communication techniques:

  • Verbal: speaking manner and tone, professional, supportive, respectful, sensitive to client, open questioning related to treatment
  • Non-verbal: eye contact, body language, listening skills, visual checks, manual, questioning
  • Techniques, professional, client care
  • Written: visual aids, magazines, client records

Important information from the consultation

  • Expectations
    • Manages expectations upfront.
    • Ensures expectations are possible in current circumstances.
    • Visual examples would be beneficial.
  • Goals 
    • Long-term goals
      • Growing out hair.
      • Achieving a particular colour.
      • Improving hair health.
      • Knowing the gaols helps plan service and allows the hairdresser to give advice.
    • Short-term goals
      • Specific events in the near future.
  • Limitations
    • Hair related limitations
      • The condition of hair can limit what can be done to the hair.
      • Factors such as hair type, texture, current hair health, and natural colour can affect the outcome.
      • Discussing hair-related limitations ensures that the client is aware of realistic expectations and goals.
    • Time and frequency of maintenance
    • Some styles require frequent upkeep, which may not suit every client’s lifestyle or schedule.
    • Should discuss limitations around maintenance to avoid styles that the client may struggle to maintain.
  • Budget
    • Need to understand the client's budget to advise clients on their options.
    • Client needs to ensure any additional costs associated with maintaining a style.
  • Time scale
    • Determine if the client needs an immediate transformation or is open to gradual changes, such as lightening dark hair over multiple sessions.
    • Ensure the client understands the time needed for each service.
  • Additional requirements or needs
    • Access requirements
      • Examples include physical access to the salon, access to equipment or furniture, restrooms, sensory-friendly environments, adaptions for hearing or visual impairments, and access to safety features.
      • Salon may need to adapt to their access needs.
        • Will help ensure clients feel comfortable and can access the services.
    • Cultural requirements
      • Examples include preferences for modesty, private space, avoidance of certain products or ingredients,
    • Ensure equality and inclusion
      • Treat all clients with respect and inclusivity, creating an environment where every client feels welcomed and valued, regardless of background or identity.

Hair and skin analysis: conversation with clients, visual inspection, scalp- inspection, touch test (elasticity, porosity, hydration levels).

Prepare hair to be used for an extension

  • Clean hair: wash, rinse
  • Dry hair: towel or air-dry or blow dry 
  • Detangle hair: with a wide-tooth comb, ensure no knots
  • Sort and align hair: align cuticles, bundle hair
  • If needed weft hair
  • Sterilise hair
  • Colour hair if needed
  • Cut hair if needed
  • Motsurise hair
  • Final quality check

3 Understand the process of applying hair extensions

Types of hair extension:

  • Clip-in: temporary that can be clipped into hair, easy to apply and remove, suitable for short-term use, suitable for all hair-types, no damage to natural hair, reusable, versatile, may slip if not properly secured.
  • Tape-in: adhesive tape at base, hair was sandwiched between two wefts with adhesive tape, semi-permanent, good for fine to medium hair, natural look, reusable with new tape, lasts 6-8 weeks, requires professional application and removal, can slip is not cared for properly or if hair is oily.
  • Sew-in or weave: sew into hair (into cornrows, micro links, lacing), best for thick, coarse hair, ideal for adding volume and length, long lasting 6-8 weeks, secure fit, can be heavy and cause tension on scalp. Required professional application, not suitable for fine hair.
  • Fusion or pre-bonded: bonded to natural hair with keratin or other types of adhesive, applied strand by strand using heat tool to melt adhesive and bond it to natural hair, suitable for most hair types, adds length and volume, natural look, long lasting 3-6 months, allows for versatile styling, time-consuming application, required professional application and removal, can cause damage to natural hair if not cared for properly.
  • Micro-link or I-tip: attached to natural hair using small metal or silicone beads, threaded through a bead along with a small section of natural hair, the bead is then clamped to hold the extension in place, suitable for most hair types, good for adding length and volume, reusable, lasts 3-6 months, can slip if not properly maintained, beads maybe visible, requires professional application and maintenance.
  • Halo: wire-based extension that sits on top of the head, hidden under the natural hair, easy to apply and remove, placed on head like halo, temporary use, suitable for all hair types, no damage to natural hair, comfortable, quick applications, may shift if not secured properly, not suitable for updos or high ponytails.
  • Nanoring: similar to micro-links but uses smaller rings for attachment, hair threaded through tiny rings along with extension and clamped in place, ideal for fine hair, less viable than micro-links, reusable, no heat or glue, time-consuming application, requires professional application and maintenance.
  • Brazilian knots or Italian knots: involves attaching individual strands of hair extensions to small sections of natural hair using a thread, extension strand is wrapped around the natural hair, and the small elastic thread is tied around the base to secure it, creating a knot, lightweight, flexible, last between 2 and 4 months, safer option for hair due to lack of chemical, heat or glue, can cause tension on the scalp, can be time-consuming.

Factors that influence the choice of hair extension type

  • Natural hair texture
  • Hair density
  • Desired look/style: length, volume, colour
  • Lifestyle and maintenance: daily routine, activity level, commitment
  • Budget: initial cost, maintenance cost
  • Hair health: condition, growth
  • Allergies and sensitivities
  • Styling versatility
  • Longevity and durability
  • Comfort
  • Appearance

Damage hair extensions can cause:

  • Traction alopecia: hair loss caused by tension on hair follicles, heavy extensions, tight extensions, prolonged continuous use of extensions, frequent use of high-tension styles with extensions.
  • Breakage and split ends: damage to hair shaft, excessive weight pulling on hair, friction between hair and extensions, improper detangling and brushing.
    • More likely if improperly moisturised (and maintained).
  • Scalp irritation and inflammation: allergic reaction, tight application, poor hygiene
  • Weakening of natural hair: continuous pressure and weight from extensions, chemical processes with extensions in place, heat damage from styling tools.
  • Infections: poor hygiene and maintenance of extensions, excessive moisture trapped between extensions and scalp, using tools or extensions or tools that are not sanitised.
  • Allergic reaction: sensitivity to adhesive, synthetic fibres or metals, contact with irritating chemicals during application.

4 Be able to apply hair extensions

How to prepare client hair for application of hair extensions: wash and condition (cleanse, condition, rinse), dry hair, detangle hair, trim hair, section hair (secure sections), ensure scalp is clean, prepare hair for particular type of extension.

Application of hair extensions

  • Clip-in: section hair, tease hair, attach clips, blend extensions, style
  • Tape-in: section hair, prepare tape, attach tape, repeat, blend and style
  • Sew in or weave: braid hair into cornrows, needle thread, attach weft, continue sewing, secure each weft (especially at the end), blend and style
  • Fusion or pre-bonded hair: section hair, take a small strand of the pre-bonded extension and place it under a section of natural hair, use the fusion heat tool to melt the keratin bond, roll between fingers to secure to natural hair, and continue applying the until all applied, blend and style
  • Micro link or I-tip: section hair, thread hair through the bead, insert extension into the bead, clamp bead, continue applying, blend and style

Cut hair extensions to desired length: ensure extensions are securely attached, section hair, determine length, comb through areas to be cut, cut hair extension (hold between fingers or clip to prevent movement, clean swift cuts), check symmetry, blend with flow of natural hair (taking care with thickness of extension to match natural hair), style hair.

Style hair extensions: ensure extensions are securely attached, apply heat protection to hair extensions, section hair, straightening hair, curling hair, blending hair, volume and texture, updos and braids, applying hairspray or setting spray.

Book a removal session with a client: recommend removal, length of time till removal, time needed for removal, electronic booking systems, email reminders, text reminders.

5 Understand the process of removing hair extensions

The importance of professional removal of hair extensions:

  • Minimise damage to natural hair
  • Ensure removed at the appropriate time
  • Reduced risk of traction alopecia
  • If reusable extension professional removal preserves their quality
  • Expert able to assess the impact on hair and scalp
  • Expert can provide aftercare advice

Instances where hair extensions would need to be removed earlier than intended: hair damage or breakage, improper maintenance, allergic reactions, outgrown extensions, lifestyle changes (activity levels, career changes), client wants style changes, matting, tangling, product build-up. 

Contra-indications that can occur while removing a hair extension: scalp irritation, allergic reaction, hair damage, matting, residue build-up, scalp or hair health issues, client discomfort or pain, discomfort or sensitivity after removal.

The importance of cleaning the hair after removing hair extensions: removal of residue and buildup, prevents irritation, helps restore scalp pH balance, easier to detangle, reserves natural hair, enhanced appearance, and long-term hair health.

6 Be able to remove a hair extension

How to remove hair extensions

  • Clip-in: section hair, release clips, gently detangle, and properly store extension.
  • Tape-in: apply remover solution, separate tape bonds, peel off extensions, clear residue, shampoo and condition.
  • Sew-in or weave: section hair, locate thread, unweave extensions, detangle and cleanse.
  • Fusion or pre-bonded: apply remover solution, crack bonds, slide extensions out, clean residue, shampoos and conditions.
  • Micro link or I-tip: locate micro links, slide extensions out, detangle and cleanse.
  • Brazilian Knot: locate thread, snap carefully, detangle extension, cleanse.
  • When removing any type of extension it is important to be patient.

How to ensure all hair extensions have been removed

  • Systematic approach
    • Sectioning hair to reduce the chance of missing any
  • Visual inspection of hair and scalp
  • Use fingers to check
  • Gently pull on hair
  • Detangling brush
  • Visual confirmation with the client

Applying hair mask or treatment following removal of extensions: selecting product (designed to hydrate, repair and strengthen hair), damp hair, section hair, starting from mid-length to ends, avoid applying directly to roots, massage in, comb through, follow instructions on time to leave in, rinse thoroughly, condition if necessary.

7 Understand the aftercare and maintenance following hair extension

Importance of completing treatment to the satisfaction of the client: repeat business, loyalty, retention, positive word of mouth, recommendations, testimonies, professional reputation, trust, credibility, client confidence, client comfort, revenue, growth, continuous improvement, personal connection, customisation, quality assurance, consistency.

Treatment records:

  • Content: medical history, contra-indications, past treatments, responses to treatments, concerns during treatment, feedback from treatments
  • Importance: customised treatments, consistency, professional image, client confidence, legal protection, track progress, inventory management, client preferences, targeted promotion, training and development, feedback

Aftercare advice that is required to be provided following hair extension application: sulphate- free shampoo, focus on the scalp when shampooing, avoid over washing, regular conditioning, avoid conditioning scalp, use a wide-tooth comb to detangle, detangle before washing, use heat protection and low heat when styling, tie hair in a loose braid or put in a ponytail while sleeping, silk pillowcase, regular checkups, monitor hair and scalp, professional removal.

Aftercare advice is required to be provided following hair extension removal: avoid touching, remove accessories, sleep on silk or satin pillowcase, gentle shampoo and conditioner, avoid excessive heat, avoid product build-up, impact of humidity (protection from sun, diet, stress), trims.

Process of gaining consent to post-treatment on social media:

  • Inform client: purpose of posting content, platforms content will be posted on
  • Written consent: consent forms, signature
  • Verbal confirmation: reiterate information, opportunity to decline
  • Respect privacy requests: anonymity options, partial consent
  • Digital documents
  • Final confirmation after taking photographs

8 Be able to demonstrate post-treatment actions

Ascertain client satisfaction levels

  • Spoken feedback at the end of the session: open-ended questions, active listening, accepting criticism, openness
  • Follow-up feedback requests: surveys, emails, follow-up discussions, reviews

Take a photograph of hair

  • Consent
  • Equipment: camera phone, lighting, background
  • Prepare client: clean, comfort
  • Lighting: natural, artificial
  • Background: contrasting colour, simple and clean
  • Positioning the client
  • Camera settings
  • Multiple shots
  • Editing pictures
  • Client approval

Methods to advise clients of maintenance and aftercare:

  • Verbal guidance
  • Printed guidance
  • Email guidance
  • Links to helpful resources
  • Follow-up communication
  • Warnings about not following advice
  • Accessibility requirements for advice
    • Large print
    • Language usage (clarity, speed)
  • Ensuring understanding

Creating a social media post about treatment: pictures, videos, platform, content, hashtags, tagging other users, confidentiality, client requests, amount of content.

Disposal of waste in an environmentally friendly manner: hazardous waste (chemical, biohazards), recycling, following salon process, following legal requirements.

Recommended Text

<div> <ul style="list-style-type: none; padding: 0;"> <li> Ford, G., & Stewart, H. (2009). <em>Hairdressing with barbering and African Type Hair Units</em>. Heinemann. <br> <a href="https://amzn.to/4j5ubSc" target="_blank" class="button">Buy on Amazon</a> </li> <li> Green, M., & Palladino, L. (2014). <em>Professional Hairdressing & Barbering: The Official Guide to Level 3</em>. Habia. <br> <a href="https://amzn.to/3E4qMV4" target="_blank" class="button">Buy on Amazon</a> </li> </ul> </div>