Competency Based Qualification

Dreadlocking Hair

Advanced Diploma in Hairdressing

Unit Aim

On successful completion: Learners are equipped with the ability to apply theoretical and technical aspects of dreadlock application, maintenance and removal. Learner gain an informed awareness of a range of dreadlock application techniques.

Unit Content

1 Understand dreadlocks

Historical roots of dreadlocks

  • Ancient Egypt
    • Mummies and sculptures found with dreadlocks
    • Pharaohs and high-ranking individuals wore dreadlocks
  • India
    • Hindu Sadhus: linked to God Shiva
  • Africa
    • Various tribes wore dreadlocks to signify a range of things
  • Ancient Greece
    • Kouros statues
  • Rastafarian movement
    • Jamaica in the 1930s
    • Biblical influence
  • Modern significance
    • United States civil rights movement
    • Global fashion

Cultural significance of dreadlocks

  • Spiritual and religious significance
    • Hinduism
      • Referred to as jata.
      • Worn by some sadhus and yogis as a symbol of their renunciation of worldly attachments.
      • The Hindu god Shiva is often depicted with matted hair, symbolising his ascetic lifestyle, spiritual power, and connection to the divine.
      • For sadhus, dreadlocks embody their commitment to a spiritual path and discipline.
    • Rastafarianism
      • In Rastafarian culture, dreadlocks represent a connection to the Bible, specifically referencing the Nazarite vow in the Book of Numbers.
      • For Rastafarians, dreadlocks signify a rejection of Babylon (Western, colonialist societies) and a return to African heritage and roots.
      • Seen as a means to resist Western beauty standards and embrace natural forms.
  • Cultural identity and heritage
    • Maasai warriors
      • Among the Maasai people of East Africa, warriors traditionally wear their hair in intricate dreadlocks that are dyed with red ochre.
      • These locks signify warrior status and tribal identity, embodying strength, courage, and cultural pride.
    • Himba people
      • In Namibia, Himba women style their hair in intricate dreadlock patterns using a mixture of ochre, butter, and herbs.
      • These styles reflect age, social status, and life milestones.
      • The styles are passed down through generations and hold great importance in maintaining Himba cultural identity and heritage.
  • Resistance and political statement
    • Civil rights movement in United States of America
      • In the 1960s and 1970s, dreadlocks became a symbol of resistance to racial discrimination and a powerful statement of African-American pride.
      • For many, wearing dreadlocks served as a rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards and as an affirmation of Black identity, resilience, and empowerment.
    • Anti-Colonialism
      • Dreadlocks have been used by various African diaspora communities as a symbol of resistance to colonial and Western ideals, asserting pride in African heritage and challenging systems of oppression.
  • Artistic expression
    • Dreadlocks offer a medium for artistic expression, with individuals styling, decorating, and personalising their locks in various ways.
  • Social status
    • In several cultures, dreadlocks are associated with certain levels of social respect, age, or status.
    • In communities like the Himba, dreadlocks signify a person’s stage in life, such as the transition from adolescence to adulthood, indicating their readiness to assume adult responsibilities within the tribe.
  • Community identity
    • Dreadlocks can offer a sense of community and offer a sense of shared beliefs and values.
  • Cultural appropriation
    • Cultural appropriation occurs when dreadlocks are worn as a fashion trend by individuals outside the communities where they hold traditional significance, often without understanding the cultural, spiritual, or historical meaning behind the style.
    • When dreadlocks are adopted by mainstream culture, especially in ways that strip them of their deeper meaning, it can lead to a lack of respect for and devaluation of the communities that hold them sacred, sparking debates about cultural sensitivity and respect.
  • Cultural sensitivity
    • Wearing dreadlocks respectfully means acknowledging and understanding the cultural origins and importance of the style, especially when worn by individuals outside the culture.
    • Stereotypes associated with dreadlocks, such as assumptions about personality or lifestyle, can lead to misjudgements.

Impact hair type can have on dreadlocks

  • Straight hair
    • Longer to lock
    • Harder to tangle and knot
    • May require more frequent maintenance
    • Sparing use of the product to avoid buildup
    • Tend to be smoother
    • Appropriate dreadlock techniques
      • Backcombing
      • Twist and rip
      • Gel twist
      • Crochet technique
      • Freeform method
  • Wavy hair
    • Similar to straight hair but easier to lock
    • Locks appear more textured
    • Appropriate dreadlock techniques
      • Backcombing
      • Twist and rip
      • Palm rolling
      • Two-strand twists
      • Crochet technique
      • Freeform method
  • Curly hair
    • Quick to lock
    • Moderate maintenance locks appear to think and voluminous
    • Appropriate dreadlock techniques
      • Backcombing
      • Twist and rip
      • Finger twisting
      • Comb coils
      • Crochet technique
      • Freeform method
  • Coily hair
    • Fastest to lock
    • Naturally mats and tangles with minimal intervention
    • Low maintenance needs to keep hair moisturised
    • Locks appear to think and dense
    • Appropriate dreadlock techniques 
      • Backcombing
      • Finger coiling
      • Comb coil
      • Palm rolling
      • Interlocking
      • Crochet technique
      • Freeform method

Contra-indications that prevent or restrict dreadlocks

  • Prevent
    • Psoriasis
      • Can cause red, itchy and scaly patches on the scalp which make it difficult to maintain dreadlocks.
    • Severe seborrheic dermatitis
      • Causes excessive dandruff, oiliness, and flaking, which can build up in dreadlocks and lead to poor hygiene, and worsening scalp irritation.
    • Severe eczema
      • Causes inflammation and itchiness which can be aggravated by the maintenance of dreadlocks.
      • Difficult to cleanse and care for the scalp.
    • Alopecia
      • Alopecia causes hair loss.
      • Tension from dreadlock formation and maintenance adds stress to the hair follicles which can cause further hair loss.
      • Dreadlocks can create uneven hair density and are, therefore, unsuitable for those with significant bald patches.
    • Severe folliculitis
      • Is an infection of the hair follicles, leading to inflamed and painful bumps on the scalp.
      • Dreadlocks can trap bacteria and sweat, potentially aggravating this condition and making it difficult to keep the scalp clean.
    • Extremely fine or fragile hair
      • May not have the strength required for dreadlocks due to the tension required and the maintenance.
      • Creating dreadlocks on extremely fine or fragile hair can lead to breakages or thinning of the hair over time.
    • Workplace policies
      • Some workplaces have policies on personal appearance which can restrict the wearing of dreadlocks.
    • School policies
      • Schools may not allow for the wearing of dreadlocks.
  • Restrict
    • Dandruff
      • Flaking can get trapped in dreadlocks, leading to poor scalp hygiene,
      • May restrict the ability to maintain dreadlocks effectively, requiring frequent scalp care and possible use of medicated treatments.
    • Mild dermatitis
      • Mild cases of dermatitis can cause discomfort or itching, which could be exacerbated by the lack of frequent washing associated with dreadlocks. 
      • Regular maintenance and the use of gentle, hypoallergenic products may be necessary to manage this condition.
    • Damaged hair
      • Pre-existing hair damage, such as split ends or brittleness, can be worsened by the tension and locking process.
      • Hair should be in good health before starting dreadlocks, and damaged hair may require conditioning treatments or trim before beginning the process.
    • Chemical treatments
      • Hair that has been chemically treated, such as through relaxers, bleaching, or permanent dyes, may have weakened bonds, making it prone to breakage when twisted or locked.
      • Chemical residue can lead to buildup, restricting the locking process.
    • High-active lifestyle
      • A lifestyle involving intense physical activity, like regular sports or outdoor work, may make it challenging to maintain dreadlocks.
      • Sweat, dust, and dirt can accumulate, requiring frequent washing and drying, which may be difficult to manage.
    • Busy schedule
      • Dreadlocks require regular maintenance, particularly in the early stages, to ensure they form properly.
      • Those with very busy schedules may find it difficult to keep up with the necessary grooming and upkeep, making dreadlocks impractical.
    • Cultural sensitivity
      • For individuals who do not come from cultures where dreadlocks are traditional, wearing dreadlocks may be viewed as cultural appropriation, which can restrict their use depending on cultural sensitivity and awareness.
      • It’s essential to understand the cultural and historical significance of dreadlocks to some communities.
    • Immune compromising conditions
      • Individuals with compromised immune systems may be more susceptible to scalp infections or conditions exacerbated by the inability to wash hair frequently.
      • Regularly washing and maintaining scalp hygiene can be challenging with dreadlocks, making them a less suitable option.

Dreadlock creation techniques

  • Backcombing
    • Strengths: allows for precise sectioning and control over size and placement, immediate results, works for most hair types.
    • Weaknesses: time-consuming, potential for damage to hair.
  • Twits and rip
    • Strengths: more natural look, no tools needed, suitable for some hair types.
    • Weaknesses: time-consuming, often leaves loose hairs, requires regular maintenance.
  • Freeform or neglect method
    • Strengths: low maintenance, natural appearance, suitable for coily hair.
    • Weaknesses: unpredictable results, long maturation time, hydration concerns. 
  • Two-strand twisting
    • Strengths: defined look, easy to learn, works for tightly coiled hair.
    • Weaknesses: requires regular maintenance, can cause breakages at root.
  • Crochet method
    • Strengths: instant locking, durable.
    • Weaknesses: requires high level of skill, time-consuming, if done incorrectly can damage hair.
  • Interlocking
    • Strengths: better access to scalp, less maintenance needed, suitable for all hair types.
    • Weaknesses: time-consuming, requires specific tools, requires high level of skill, can result in weak points where hair may break.
  • Gel and twist
    • Strengths: controlled way to start to process, clean and uniform look, relatively straight forward, does not require complex tools or techniques.
    • Weaknesses: can cause product build up, the dreadlock can take a significant amount of time to dry.

Torsion

  • Occurs when hair is twisted around its axis.
    • Twisting applied in a range of dreadlock creation techniques.
  • Degree of torsion influences how tightly or loosely the hair locks together.
  • Encourages hair stands to intertwine and knot.
  • Curly and coily hair require less torsion to lock than straight hair.
  • Regular application of torsion helps prevent dreadlocks unravelling.
  • Excessive torsion can place stress on the hair follicles and scalp, leading to discomfort or potential issues like traction alopecia if done too tightly or frequently.

2 Be able to create dreadlocks

Preparing hair for deadlocks: wash with residue-free shampoo, avoid conditioner, rinse thoroughly, dry hair (damp hair can result in mold or mildew growth in locks), brush or comb hair, section hair, trim any damaged ends, check for scalp health, match technique to hair type.

Dreadlock creation techniques

  • Backcombing: section hair, backcomb, secure section, palm roll, repeat for all section.
  • Twist and rip: section hair, twist section, rip the hair, repeat, secure section, repeat.
  • Two-stand twisting: section hair, twist section, two-strand twist, secure end and root, repeat.
  • Crochet: section hair, crochet hair (insert hair near root, pull hair though to create knots), palm roll, repeat.
  • Interlock: section hair, start lock using interlocking tool, repeat, secure, repeat.
  • Gel and twist: section hair, secure sections, apply gel, twist the hair (palm rolling or two- stand twist), secure.
  • General guidance: ensure not overly tight.

Techniques to round off or close a tip neatly

  • Crochet: insert hook into tip, use hook to pull loose hairs, insert hook and pull hairs in circular motion, palm roll to smooth out.
  • Backcombing and rolling: backcomb tip, twist and roll tip, secure if needed.
  • Felting needle: poke tip repeatedly, continue in circular motion to shape, palm roll to finish. 
  • Wax method: use sparingly, apply wax, shape tip, palm roll.

Adding dreadlock wraps: choose materials, measure and cut material, secure stating point (select a dreadlock, tie knot), start wrapping (hold the material, wrap around dreadlock, keep wrapping), secure ends (tie knot, tuck the end), add beads or charms (ensure appropriate weight to prevent damage to scalp and hair.

3 Understand dreadlock extensions

Techniques used to apply dreadlock extensions:

  • Crochet method: section hair, prepare extension, attach (pull small section of natural hair through extension, use crochet hook to pull strands of natural hair through extensions, start near loop and move downwards), continue crochet until secure and blended with natural hair, repeat
  • Wrapping method: section hair, prepare extensions, attach extensions (place extension alongside section of natural hair, wrap base of extension and natural hair together), secure with gel/wax, blend, repeat
  • Interlocking method: section hair, prepare extensions, attach extension (pull small section through the loop of extension, use an interlocking tool or latch hook to pull the natural hair through the root of extension in the 4-point pattern), secure, repeat
  • Braiding method: section hair, prepare extensions, attach (place extension alongside a section of natural hair, divide natural hair into three parts and start three-strand braid with extensions as one of the strands), braid, secure ends, blend, repeat

Benefits of dreadlock extensions: quick transformation, flexible styling, resilient, low maintenance, can be used to protect natural hair, can reduce stress on natural hair, improve scalp health, high level of customisation, comfortable, realistic, allow a trial of dreadlocks, support the growth of natural growth of dreadlocks, conceal the damage, can act as a solution to hair loss.

Process of selecting and ordering dreadlock extensions: match the needs and desires of the customers, choose between synthetic human hair, select colour, research vendors, ensure a quality product, consider return policy, place an order (measurements, customer orders, shipping and delivery).

4 Be able to apply dreadlock extensions

Preparing extension: gather supplies, wash extensions (rinse, shampoo, rinse, condition, dry), section hair, and sort hair.

Preparing client hair for extension: wash and condition, dry thoroughly, and section.

Sectioning hair for dreadlock extensions

  • Decide size
    • Micro size is very thin dreadlocks that resemble small twits or tiny locks, typically smaller than 0.5 cm wide.
    • Small size creates thinner dreads and ensures consistency, typically about 0.5 cm to 1 cm wide.
    • Medium size creates moderately thick dreadlocks that are well-balanced in density and weight, typically around 1 cm to 1.5 cm wide.
    • Large size creates thick dreadlocks, which take up more of the scalp per dreadlock, typically 1.5 cm to 2 cm or more wide.
    • Can use a combination of sizes to add texture and create a varied overall look.
  • Decide pattern
    • Brick-lay pattern
      • Arrange sections in a brick-like layout, where each row’s sections are offset from the row above. 
      • Easier to maintain, as the pattern hides new growth and prevents straight lines from forming at the roots.
    • Grid pattern
      • In the grid pattern, sections are created in a precise square or rectangular layout, forming clear rows and columns.
      • Grid patterns are easy to maintain, as the section lines are clearly defined.
      • New growth may be more visible between sections.
    • Diamond pattern
      • Sections are shaped into diamonds, creating an interesting, unique structure across the scalp.
      • Can be slightly more challenging to maintain due to the unusual shape of each section, which may not hold as neatly as squares or rectangles.
    • Circular or spiral pattern
      • Involves sectioning the hair in a spiral or circular design around the head, often starting at the crown and working outward.
      • The circular pattern can be challenging to maintain as the sections follow the curve of the head, which requires careful retwisting or rolling to avoid pulling.
    • Freestyle or organic pattern
      • Involves sectioning the hair without a strict pattern, creating randomly sized sections that follow the natural growth pattern of the hair.
      • Freestyle dreadlocks can be easier to maintain, as there’s no strict pattern to follow.
      • Require less structured upkeep and suit a more natural look.
    • Triangle pattern
      • This pattern involves sectioning the hair into triangular shapes, creating a distinct geometric layout across the scalp.
      • Maintenance may be more complex due to the triangular shapes, but the defined sections help to keep the dreadlocks separated.
    • Checkboard pattern
      • Similar to the grid, the checkerboard pattern alternates between larger and smaller squares to create a balanced look with varied section sizes.
      • Requires regular upkeep to keep the sections from blending, especially as the hair grows.
      • Allows for easy styling due to the defined rows.
  • Section hair top and bottom sections, creating rows, creating sections with rows, top section.
  • Ensure symmetry and evenness
  • Ensure sections are secure and ready for extensions
  • Prepare for installation: ensure all are secure; consider dampening hair to make it easier to work with.

Applying dreadlock extensions to mature dreadlocks: clean and dry natural dreadlocks, section hair, fluff ends, crochet method, wrapping method.

5 Understand the removal of dreadlocks and dreadlock extensions

Instances where dreadlocks or dreadlock extensions would need to be removed:

  • Dreadlocks negatively impact the scalp
    • Irritation 
    • Infection
    • Severe dandruff
    • Seborrheic dermatitis
  • Hair damage
    • Breakage
    • Thinning
  • Client struggling with maintenance
  • Buildup of product
  • Change in style or lifestyle
    • No suited to dreadlocks
  • Lose or damaged extensions
  • Mismatch extensions
  • Surgery requirements
  • Medical treatment or conditions
  • Travel restrictions
  • Cultural practices
    • Might require removal of certain events or at certain time period

Products and tools used in dreadlock or dreadlock extension removal:

  • Conditioner
    • Heavy duty: soften dreadlocks easier to detangle
    • Leave-in: ongoing moisture lubricate to ease in detangling
  • Detangling spray: reduce knots
  • Oils: add slip and moisture
  • Scissors: cut off extensions or ends
  • Wide-tooth comb: gently detangle
  • Rat-tail comb: helps with precision sectioning remove tight knots
  • Clarifying shampoo: remove product build-up and prepare hair for detangling
  • Hair mask or deep conditioner: intense hydration repair
  • Detangling brush: gentle removal if tangles and knots
  • Spray bottle with water

Impact of incorrect removal of dreadlocks or dreadlock extensions: split ends, excessive hair breakage, weakening of hair shaft, traction alopecia, root damage, scalp irritation, infection, increased tangles, matting, need for significant trimming, unintentional haircut, dry hair, loss of electricity, stress and anxiety, dissatisfaction with hair appearance.

6 Be able to remove dreadlocks and dreadlock extensions

Process of dreadlock removal

  • Wash hair (clarifying shampoo)
  • Condition (let sit for at least 30 minutes)
  • Section hair (using rat-tail comb)
  • Start at ends (gently pull apart dreadlock work slowly)
  • Apply more conditioner if you encounter resistance
  • Use a wide-tooth comb to comb dreadlocks from ends to roots
    • Hold dreadlock near toot to minimise tension on the scalp
  • Rinse
  • Deep condition
  • Pat dry 
  • Trim ends if needed

Process of removing dreadlock extensions:

  • Wash hair (clarifying shampoo)
  • Condition (let sit for at least 30 minutes)
  • Section hair (using rat-tail comb)
  • Remove dreadlocks
    • If braided or tied cut the elastic bands or threads securing them
    • If wrapped or twisted carefully untwist them starting from the bottom and working your way up
  • Detangle
  • If needed, remove residue
  • Rinse
  • Deep condition
  • Pat dry

7 Understand the aftercare and maintenance following a dreadlock related appointment

Importance of completing treatment to the satisfaction of the client: repeat business, loyalty, retention, positive word of mouth, recommendations, testimonies, professional reputation, trust, credibility, client confidence, client comfort, revenue, growth, continuous improvement, personal connection, customisation, quality assurance, consistency.

Treatment records:

  • Content: medical history, contra-indications, past treatments, responses to treatments, concerns during treatment, feedback from treatments
  • Importance: customised treatments, consistency, professional image, client confidence, legal protection, track progress, inventory management, client preferences, targeted promotion, training and development, feedback

Aftercare advice that is required to be provided the following application of dreadlock

extensions: wait as long as possible before washing, wash regularly but avoid over washing, use gentle washing technique, dry hair (gently squeeze out excess water, allow air dry), regularly palm roll, may require occasional retweeting based on hair type, handle gently, avoid tight hairstyles, maintain roots, moisturise scalp, apply condition occasionally, wear satin or silk scarf or satin pillowcase to sleep, protect dreadlocks, avoid products which will cause build up, follow-up appointment 4-6 weeks after treatment.

Process of gaining consent to post-treatment on social media:

  • Inform client: purpose of posting content, platforms content will be posted on
  • Written consent: consent forms, signature
  • Verbal confirmation: reiterate information, opportunity to decline
  • Respect privacy requests: anonymity options, partial consent
  • Digital documents
  • Final confirmation after taking photographs

8 Be able to demonstrate post-treatment actions

Ascertain client satisfaction levels

  • Spoken feedback at the end of the session: open-ended questions, active listening, accepting criticism, openness
  • Follow-up feedback requests: surveys, emails, follow-up discussions, reviews

Take photograph of hair 

  • Consent
  • Equipment: camera phone, lighting, background
  • Prepare client: clean, comfort
  • Lighting: natural, artificial
  • Background: contrasting colour, simple and clean
  • Positioning the client
  • Camera settings
  • Multiple shots
  • Editing pictures
  • Client approval

Methods to advise clients of maintenance and aftercare:

  • Verbal guidance
  • Printed guidance
  • Email guidance
  • Links to helpful resources
  • Follow-up communication
  • Warnings about not following advice
  • Accessibility requirements for advice
    • Large print
    • Language usage (clarity, speed)
  • Ensuring understanding

AC Create a social media post about treatment: pictures, videos, platform, content, hashtags, tagging other users, confidentiality, client requests, amount of content.

AC Dispose of waste in an environmentally friendly manner: hazardous waste (chemical, biohazards), recycling, following salon process, following legal requirements.

Recommended Text

<div> <ul style="list-style-type: none; padding: 0;"> <li> Ford, G., & Stewart, H. (2009). <em>Hairdressing with barbering and African Type Hair Units</em>. Heinemann. <br> <a href="https://amzn.to/4j5ubSc" target="_blank" class="button">Buy on Amazon</a> </li> <li> Green, M., & Palladino, L. (2014). <em>Professional Hairdressing & Barbering: The Official Guide to Level 3</em>. Habia. <br> <a href="https://amzn.to/3E4qMV4" target="_blank" class="button">Buy on Amazon</a> </li> <li> Dread Lab. (2018). <em>Dreadlocks creation guide</em>. <br> <a href="https://www.dreadlab.co.uk/pages/dreadlocks-creation-guide" target="_blank" class="button">Read More</a> </li> <li> Dreadlock Central. (2024). <em>Blog, Guide & Answers</em>. <br> <a href="https://dreadlockcentral.com/articles/" target="_blank" class="button">Read More</a> </li> </ul> </div>