Creative Haircutting Techniques

1 Understand the process of preparing for a hairdressing appointment

Salon requirements for preparing self, the client and the work area

• Self: personal hygiene, personal appearance, grooming, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), mental readiness, focus, knowledge and skills.
• Work area: workplace organisation, sanitisation, sterilisation, availability of tools, stock controls, ambience, accessibility of space, emergency procedures.
• Client: seating, privacy, personal belongings, cleaning client, protective covering.
• Importance of an accurate and detailed consultation with the client: personal preferences, goals, expectations, medical history, contra-indications, skin and hair analysis, personalisation of treatments, professional relationship, communication, product selection, clarifying limitations, enhancing client satisfaction, client experience, client retention, informed consent, professional standards, baseline assessment, track progress, adjust treatments.
• Importance of consulting treatment history: identifying contra-indications, avoiding adverse reactions (allergies, irritation), customised care, consistency, building trust and rapport, record keeping, accountability, tracking progress, enhancing treatment outcomes, preventing treatment overlap.
• Importance of hair and skin analysis: understand hair type, determine hair condition, product selection, identify any disorders, optimise treatment, determine skin condition, avoid irritants, preventive care, and individualised care.

Structure of hair

• Hair follicles: skin organ that produces hair.
  
  • Dermal papilla: rich in blood vessels, supplies nutrients and oxygen to the growing hair cells.
  • Hair matrix: surrounds the dermal papilla, cells rapidly divide to produce a hair shaft.
  • Hair bulb: located at the base of the hair follicle, contains cells that divide and grow to build the hair shaft and house the dermal papilla.
  • Sebaceous glands: attached to the hair follicles, produce sebum.
  • Arrector pili muscle: small muscle attached to follicles, contacts in response to cold or fear, causing hair to stand up.
  • Impact on hair type.
    
    • Round follicles produce straight hair.
    • Oval or slightly curved follicles produce wavy hair.
    • Elliptical or very curved follicles produce curly hair.
    • Very flat or twisted follicles produce coily hair.
• Hair shaft: visible part of the hair, impacts thickness of hair.
  
  • Cuticle: the outer layer of the hair shaft, overlapping transparent cells that protect the inner layers, give hair its shine and protect the hair from damage.
    
    • Straight hair had flat cuticles.
    • Curly or coiled hair had raised cuticles.
    • Porosity: hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture.
      
      • Determined by the structure and condition of the hair cuticle.
  • Cortex: thickest layer of the hair shaft, tightly packed keratin, contains melanin that gives hair colour.
  • Medulla: innermost layer, not present in all hair types, made up of soft, spongy cells.
• Keratin: protein that forms the structural framework of the hair, and provides strength and resilience to the hair shaft.
  
  • In straight hair, keratin fibres are uniformly aligned.
  • In curly or coily hair keratin fibres are more irregularly aligned.
• Melanin: pigment responsible for hair colour.
  
  • Eumelanin: responsible for black or brown hair.
  • Pheomelanin: responsible for red or yellowish hair.
• pH: pH of healthy hair and scalp typically ranges between 4.5 and 5.5, making it slightly acidic.
  
  • Acid mantle: thin film on the scalp and hair surface.
    
    • Composed of sebum and sweat.
    • A slightly acidic environment is crucial for maintaining the health of the hair and scalp by protecting against bacteria, fungi, and other environmental pollutants.
  • Cuticle layer: the outer layer of the hair shaft, overlapping transparent cells that protect the inner layers, give hair its shine and protect the hair from damage.
    
    • When the pH is within the natural acidic range, the cuticle layers lie flat, protecting the inner layers of the hair and giving it a smooth, shiny appearance.
    • Acidic (pH lower than 7) products help to close and tighten the cuticles and smooth the hair surface.
    • Alkaline substances (pH above 7) cause the cuticles to lift and open, which can lead to moisture loss, and increased porosity.
  • An acidic environment helps hair retain moisture.
  • Testing and adjusting pH.
    
    • pH Testing: you can test the pH of hair products using pH strips or meters, especially if you’re making DIY hair treatments. It’s important to ensure that the products you use are within a pH range that supports hair health.
    • Acidic rinses: after using alkaline products or chemical treatments, acidic rinses (like diluted apple cider vinegar with a pH of around 3) can help restore the hair's natural pH and smooth the cuticles.
    • Leave-in conditioners: these often have a low pH to help seal the hair cuticles after washing and conditioning, which can help maintain moisture and shine.
  • Consequences of imbalanced pH.
    
    • Dry, brittle hair: if the pH of hair is consistently too high (alkaline), the cuticles remain open, leading to moisture loss and making the hair dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.
    • Tangling: high pH levels can cause the hair to become more prone to tangling, as the raised cuticles create a rough surface.
    • Scalp issues: an imbalanced pH can disrupt the scalp’s natural environment, leading to issues like dandruff, itching, or infections.
    • Lack of shine: when the cuticles are open or damaged due to pH imbalance, hair loses its natural shine and smoothness.

Function of hair

• Protection
  
  • Ultraviolet (UV) rays: hair acts as a natural shield against UV rays and helps to protect the scalp from sunburn and skin cancer.
  • Dust: prevents dust, pollen, and small debris from directly contacting the scalp and face, acting as a filter that keeps contaminants from irritating the skin.
  • Debris (fluff, skin, dirt): traps debris to prevent it from reaching the skin so as to reduce skin irritation.
  • Sweat: helps manage sweat by absorbing and directing it away from the skin, which aids in cooling and prevents excess moisture from causing irritation.
  • Barrier from pathogens: forms a physical barrier, reduces risk of infection.
• Sensory
  
  • Early warning system:
    
    • Hair follicles are connected to nerves, allowing hair to serve as an early alert system.
    • Hair movement signals discomfort or danger, such as the sensation of hair being pulled, which can prompt immediate protective action.
  • Enhance other sensors: amplifies the perception of touch by transferring pressure or vibrations to nerve endings, enhancing the sensitivity of skin to touch, temperature changes, and potential injury from heat or chemicals.
• Social functions
  
  • Confidence: often plays a central role in self-image, with certain styles or colours boosting confidence and self-esteem, reflecting individuality and personality.
  • Empowerment: styling can be empowering, allowing individuals to take control of their appearance and express their identity, leading to a sense of self-assurance.
  • Social acceptance: can help signal affiliation with specific cultural, social, or professional groups, promoting a sense of belonging or acceptance.
  • Historical contexts of hairstyles
    
    • Across cultures and history, hair has been used to signify social status, spirituality, or  identity.
    • Traditional hairstyles may convey age, marital status, or social position within a community.
• Camouflage and communication
  
  • Evolutionary perspective
    
    • In early human evolution, hair may have served as camouflage, helping early humans blend into their environments. This adaptive trait would have provided protection from predators by allowing individuals to remain less conspicuous.
  • Nonverbal communication: hairstyles and hair colours can act as visual signals, communicating messages such as social status, rebellion, or alignment with cultural trends, making hair a form of nonverbal expression within human society.

Hair growth cycle:

• Anagen phase: growth phase
  
  • Active hair growth 2 to 7 years
    
    • Length of time will depend on genetics, environmental and health factors.
  • Cells in the hair matrix divide rapidly.
    
    • Causes the hair shaft to elongate.
  • Hair grows about 1 cm per month.
  • The longer this phase lasts the longer the hair will grow.
• Catagen phrases: transition phase
  
  • 2-3 weeks
  • Hair growth slows
  • Hair follicle shrinks
    
    • Detach from the hair supply.
  • The hair stops growing but remains attached within the follicle as the hair structure prepares for the next phase.
• Telogen phase: resting phrase
  
  • 3 months
  • Hair follicles inactive
    
    • No new hair growth.
  • Hair shreds naturally
    
    • Allows new hair to grow in its place.
  • Typically, about 10-15% of the hair on the scalp is in the telogen phase at any given time.
• Cycle restarts.
  
  • After the telogen phase, the hair follicle re-enters the anagen phase, and the cycle begins again with the formation of new hair to replace the old one.

Factors that impact on hair growth:

• Genetics
  
  • Number of hair follicles, hair colour, thickness, texture, and the growth cycle's duration are largely inherited from parents.
  • Genetic predispositions can determine the likelihood of developing conditions like androgenic alopecia.
  • Genetic factors influence how many hair follicles have on the scalp, which directly impacts hair density.
  • While the average hair growth rate is about half an inch per month, this can vary among individuals based on their genetic makeup.
• Age
  
  • Hormonal changes
    
    • Puberty: During puberty, an increase in hormones like androgens can cause changes in hair growth patterns, leading to thicker body and facial hair in males.
    • Pregnancy: Pregnancy often causes an increase in estrogen levels, which can prolong the growth phase of the hair cycle, leading to thicker hair.
      Post-pregnancy, a decrease in estrogen can cause a significant amount of hair to enter the shedding phase.
    • Menopause: During menopause, estrogen levels drop, which can lead to thinner hair and slower growth.
  • Hair growth cycle
    
    • Anagen Phase: The active growth phase of hair that can last between 2 to 7 years and varies with age. Younger individuals typically have a longer anagen phase, leading to longer hair growth potential.
    • Telogen Phase: The resting phase where hair is shed. As we age, more hair follicles may enter the telogen phase, contributing to thinning hair and slower growth.
• Nutrition and diet
  
  • Protein
    
    • Keratin Production: hair is primarily made up of keratin, a protein that relies on dietary protein for synthesis. Insufficient protein intake can lead to weak, brittle hair, and slower growth.
  • Vitamins
    
    • Vitamin A: essential for the production of sebum, which moisturises the scalp and helps keep hair healthy.
    • Vitamin B (Biotin): crucial for hair strength and growth, supporting the metabolism of proteins and fats necessary for hair production.
    • Vitamin C: promotes collagen production, which strengthens the hair
    • structure and enhances iron absorption, which is crucial for healthy hair growth.
    • Vitamin D: plays a role in the creation of new hair follicles and is linked to hair density.
    • Vitamin E: acts as an antioxidant that helps protect hair cells from damage.
  • Minerals
    
    • Iron: essential for red blood cells to carry oxygen to the hair follicles. Iron deficiency is a common cause of hair loss.
    • Zinc: supports hair tissue growth and repair. Zinc deficiency can lead to hair loss and scalp issues.
    • Magnesium: helps the body absorb calcium, which is crucial for hair growth.
  • Hydration
    
    • Scalp Health: adequate water intake is vital for maintaining scalp health. Dehydration can lead to a dry, flaky scalp, which can impede hair growth.
    • Hair Shaft Integrity: proper hydration helps keep hair flexible and less prone to breakage.
• Hormones
  
  • Androgens
    
    • DHT (Dihydrotestosterone): a potent androgen that can shrink hair
    • follicles in those genetically predisposed to androgenic alopecia, leading to hair thinning and eventual hair loss.
    • Testosterone: converted into DHT, it plays a significant role in hair growth patterns, especially in males.
  • Estrogen
    
    • Hair Growth Stimulation: estrogen is known to prolong the anagen phase of the hair cycle, promoting thicker, longer hair.
    • Postpartum Hair Loss: after childbirth, the drop in estrogen levels can lead to increased shedding as more hair enters the telogen phase.

• Stress
  
  • Cortisol
    
    • Telogen Effluvium: high-stress levels can increase cortisol production, which may push a significant number of hair follicles into the telogen phase, leading to increased hair shedding.
    • Hair Growth Disruption: chronic stress can disrupt the hair growth cycle, slowing down hair growth and leading to thinner hair.
  • Alopecia Areata
    
    • Autoimmune Response: stress can trigger or worsen alopecia areata, an autoimmune condition where the immune system attacks hair follicles, leading to hair loss.
• Lifestyle
  
  • Smoking
    
    • Reduced Circulation: smoking constricts blood vessels, reducing blood flow to the scalp, which can inhibit hair growth by depriving hair follicles of essential nutrients and oxygen.
    • DNA Damage: toxins in cigarettes can damage the DNA in hair follicles, leading to hair thinning and loss.
  • Exercise
    
    • Improved Circulation: regular exercise improves blood circulation, ensuring that hair follicles receive sufficient oxygen and nutrients, promoting healthy hair growth.
    • Stress Reduction: exercise reduces stress levels, which can help prevent stress-related hair loss.
• Environmental factors
  
  • Pollution
    
    • Oxidative Stress: pollutants like dust, smoke, and chemicals can cause oxidative stress on the scalp and hair, leading to damage, weakening hair follicles, and slowing growth.
  • UV Radiation
    
    • Sun Damage: prolonged exposure to UV rays can damage the hair shaft, leading to dryness, brittleness, and colour fading. It can also damage the scalp, affecting hair growth.
  • Climate
    
    • Humidity: high humidity can make hair more prone to breakage. Dry climates can dry out the hair and scalp, leading to brittle hair and slower growth.
• Hair care practices
  
  • Heat Styling
    
    • Hair Damage: frequent use of heat styling tools like straighteners, curling irons, and blow dryers can weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage and slower growth.
  • Chemical Treatments
    
    • Hair Weakening: chemical treatments like colouring, perming, and relaxing can damage the hair's structural integrity, leading to breakage and thinning if not done carefully.
  • Hairstyles
    
    • Tight Hairstyles: hairstyles that pull tightly on the scalp, like ponytails, braids, or buns, can cause traction alopecia, leading to hair loss around the hairline.
  • Scalp Care
    
    • Cleansing: regular washing helps keep the scalp clean and free from sebum buildup, which can clog hair follicles and impede growth.
    • Exfoliation: scalp exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells and product buildup, promoting a healthy environment for hair growth.
  • Hair Trimming
    
    • Split End Prevention: regular trims help prevent split ends from travelling up the hair shaft, keeping hair looking healthy and possibly reducing breakage.

Contra-indication that would prevent a haircut

• Scalp infection
  
  • Contagious conditions caused by fungi or bacteria.
  • Close contact can spread or worsen infections.
• Head lice
  
  • Highly contagious parasites.
  • Haircuts could spread the lice to other clients or equipment.
• Severe psoriasis or eczema on the scalp
  
  • If the condition is severe, there might be excessive flaking, itching, and even bleeding.
  • Cutting hair can aggravate these symptoms and cause discomfort or further irritation to the client.
• Open wounds or cuts on the scalp
  
  • Fresh wounds or cuts are highly vulnerable to infection.
  • Using hairdressing tools near the area could introduce bacteria, delay healing, and cause pain for the client.
• Recent surgery or head trauma
  
  • The scalp might still be in the recovery phase after surgery or injury.
  • Manipulation of the scalp could interfere with the healing process, cause discomfort, or even open sutures or wounds.
    
    • Could lead to complications.

Contra-indication that would restrict a haircut

• Mild scalp irritation or sensitivity
  
  • Could cause discomfort.
  • Ensure gentle handling.
  • Avoid harsh products or equipment.
• Mild dandruff
  
  • Excessive flaking can make it difficult to cut.
  • Avoid products that will irritate the skin.
• Skin allergies or reactions to certain products
  
  • Avoid products that cause a reaction.
  • Consider limiting options to ensure no reactions to new products.
  • Hypoallergenic products where possible.
• Bruises or minor injuries to the head
  
  • Be cautious when treating the area.
• Condition of hair
  
  • May restrict some treatments, especially those involving heat or chemicals.
  • Take a gentle approach to avoid further damage.

2 Be able to prepare for a hairdressing appointment

Clean workspace in line with salon requirements: PPE (gloves, masks, aprons), disinfectant, cleaning tools, sanitisation, surface cleaning, floor cleaning, toilets, clean chairs and stations, towels and linen, rubbish, and hand washing.

Clean tools to be used for the treatment: sterilisation, risk of cross-contamination, selection of appropriate tools and equipment, availability of equipment.

Communication techniques:

• Verbal: speaking manner and tone, professional, supportive, respectful, sensitive to client, open questioning related to treatment
• Non-verbal: eye contact, body language, listening skills, visual checks, manual, questioning
• Techniques, professional, client care
• Written: visual aids, magazines, client records

Important information from the consultation

• Expectations
  
  • Manages expectations upfront.
  • Ensures expectations are possible in current circumstances.
  • Visual examples would be beneficial.
• Goals
  
  • Long-term goals
    
    • Growing out hair.
    • Achieving a particular colour.
    • Improving hair health.
    • Knowing the goals helps plan service and allows the hairdresser to give advice.
  • Short-term goals
    
    • Specific events in the near future.
• Limitations
  
  • Hair related limitations
    
    • The condition of hair can limit what can be done to the hair.
    • Factors such as hair type, texture, current hair health, and natural colour can affect the outcome.
    • Discussing hair-related limitations ensures that the client is aware of realistic expectations and goals.
  • Time and frequency of maintenance
    
    • Some styles require frequent upkeep, which may not suit every client’s lifestyle or schedule.
    • Should discuss limitations around maintenance to avoid styles that the client may struggle to maintain.
• Budget
  
  • Need to understand clients' budgets to advise clients on their options.
  • Client needs to ensure any additional costs associated with maintaining a style.
• Time scale
  
  • Determine if the client needs an immediate transformation or is open to gradual changes, such as lightening dark hair over multiple sessions.
  • Ensure the client understands the time needed for each service.
• Additional requirements or needs
  
  • Access requirements
    
    • Examples include physical access to the salon, access to equipment or furniture, restrooms, sensory-friendly environments, adaptions for hearing or visual impairments, and access to safety features.
    • Salon may need to adapt to their access needs.
    • Will help ensure clients feel comfortable and can access the services.
  • Cultural requirements
    
    • Examples include preferences for modesty, private space, avoidance of certain products or ingredients
  • Ensure equality and inclusion
    
    • Treat all clients with respect and inclusivity, creating an environment where every client feels welcomed and valued, regardless of background or identity.

Consult treatment history: digital records, confirm appropriate treatment based on records.

Hair and skin analysis:

• Conversation with clients
• Visual inspection
• Scalp inspection
• Touch test
  
  • Elasticity
  • Porosity
  • Hydration levels

Adaptions based on hair analysis

• Communication with client
• Product selection
• Technique selection
• Aftercare advice

3 Understand the process of cutting hair

Factors that can impact the style of haircut

• Face shape
  
  • Influence which hairstyles are flattering
• Hair type and texture
  
  • Effect techniques used and styles which will be effective
• Hair density
  
  • Fine hair may want to add bulk
  • Thick hair might require thinning
• Hair conditions
  
  • Damaged hair may require spilt end removal
  • Healthy hair can handle more styles and techniques
• Personal preferences
• Maintenance expectations: some hairstyles will require higher maintenance
• Workplace requirements and expectations
• Activity levels
• Current trends
• Seasonal changes
• Cultural norms and traditions
• Gender norms
• Confidence and self-image

Safety considerations to consider when cutting hair

• Equipment safety
  
  • Suitable, safe and effective tool handling
  • Sanitation
  • Sterilisation
  • Maintenance of tools
• Hygiene
  
  • Effective hand washing
  • Protective gear: gloves where needed, masks if needed, apron
• Client safety: allergies, contra-indications, client comfort
• Environmental safety: organisation of workplace, lighting, ventilation
• Electric safety: water and electricity, following instructions
• Emergency preparations: emergency procedures, first aid kit
• Ergonomics: stylist posture, client positioning
• Chemical safety: storage of chemicals, use of chemicals and products

Face shapes

• Oval: forehead slightly wider than chin, face length about one and a half times the width, rounded jawline
• Round face shapes: The face is nearly as wide as long, cheekbones are widest part of the face, jawline and fine are rounded and not as pronounced
• Square face shape: forehead, cheekbones and jawline about the same width, strong angular jawline
• Heart face shape: forehead is widest part, cheekbones are prominent, chin is narrow and pointed
• Diamond face shape: narrow forehead and jawline, cheekbones are the widest part of the face and are high on the face, face length is slightly longer than the width
• Oblong or rectangle face shape: face length is noticeably longer than its width, forehead, cheekbones and jawline about the same width, jawline usually more rounded than square
• Triangle or pear face shape: jawline is widest part, forehead and cheekbones are narrower, face length is typically a bit longer than its width
• Inverted triangle face shape: forehead is the widest part, the jawline is narrow, similar to heat shape but with no pointed chin, face length is slightly longer than the width

Hair types

• Texture
  
  • Straight: lies flat on the scalp, natural oil can easily travel down the hair shaft
    
    • Type 1A: Very straight, fine, and thin hair that tends to be soft and shiny.
    • Type 1B: Straight with a bit more volume and thickness than Type 1A.
    • Type 1C: Straight but coarse, with more body and texture.
    • Impact on styling
      
      • Difficult to create volume
      • Curls and waves will struggle to be held without strong styling products
      • Use volumising products
      • Consider using dry shampoo or texturising spray to add grip and volume
      • Use high temperatures when curling
  • Wavy: texture between straight and curly, forms “S” shape
    
    • Type 2A: Fine, thin, and loose waves with a gentle, tousled texture.
    • Type 2B: Wavy with more defined, slightly thicker waves.
    • Type 2C: Coarser waves with a more prominent "S" shape and can have some ringlets.
    • Impact on styling
      
      • Can be uneven in structure, leading to uneven results from styling
      • Use lightweight gels or creams that enhance and define natural waves without weighing them down
      • When blow-drying, use a diffuser attachment to maintain and enhance natural waves
  • Curly: tighter curls, more voluminous, prone to dryness because natural oils find it harder to travel down the strands
    
    • Type 3A: Large, loose curls that are well-defined and springy.
    • Type 3B: Bouncier, tighter curls with more volume.
    • Type 3C: Tight, corkscrew curls that are dense.
    • Impact on styling
      
      • Can shrink when dry, difficult to predict final length of style More prone to tangling
      • Use rich, hydrating shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments to keep curls moisturized and defined.
      • Apply curl creams or gels using techniques like the "rake and shake" or "twist and scrunch" to define curls
      • Air drying with a leave-in conditioner or using a diffuser can help maintain the natural curl pattern
  • Coily: tight curls or zigzag pattern, voluminous, dense, prone to dryness and shrinkage
    
    • Type 4A: Soft, tightly coiled hair with a visible "S" pattern.
    • Type 4B: More of a "Z" pattern with sharp angles and less defined curls.
    • Type 4C: The tightest and most fragile curl pattern, often with no defined curl pattern and significant shrinkage.
    • Impact on styling
      
      • Shrink when dry, difficult to predict the final length of the style
      • Prone to tangling and breakage, gentle handling essential
      • Regular deep conditioning treatments with rich, moisturising ingredients are crucial for maintaining the health and elasticity of coily hair
      • Styles like braids, twists, or Bantu knots help protect coily hair from breakage and tangling while also promoting moisture retention
      • To reduce shrinkage, use stretching techniques like banding, twisting, or threading to elongate the hair without heat
      • Minimise combing and brushing to avoid breakage.
        
        • Finger detangling and wide-tooth combs are often best for coily hair
  • Factors that influence hair texture
    
    • Shape of the follicle
    • Keratin structure
    • Hair shaft structure (thickness and shape)
    • Humidity and moisture
    • Hormones and moisture: hair changes as hormones change
  • Tests to assess hair texture
    
    • Strand thickness: assess stand thickness by taking a stand and rolling it between fingers.
    • Overall texture: run fingers through hair
    • Curl pattern test: let hair air dry after washing without using and products
    • Porosity test: take a strand of hair and place it in a glass of water
    • Elasticity test: take a stand of wet hair and gently stretch it
    • Shine and reflectivity: Observe how hair reflects hair
    • Shrinkage test (for curly/coily hair): measure amount of shrinkage from wet to dry length.

• Thickness: diameter of an individual hair strand
  
  • Fine hair
    
    • Smallest diameter
    • Thin and delicate
    • Brone to breakage and damage
    • Can struggle to hold styles due to lack of volume
    • Can look flat
    • Tends to dry fast
    • Can become greasy quickly
    • Easily weighed down by products
  • Medium thick hair
    
    • Most comment thickness
    • Balanced structure: sting and versatile
    • Hold styles better
    • Less prone to breakage than thin hair
  • Coarse hair
    
    • Largest diameter
    • Strongest thickness of hair
    • Hold shape well
    • Can be challenging to style
    • Resistant to damage
    • Takes longer to dry
  • Factors impacting hair thickness
    
    • The primary influencing factor is genetics
    • Hormones impact thickens
    • Age: hair can become thinner with age (hormones, shorter anagen phase, reduced hair follicle activity).
    • Poor nutrition can lead to thinner hair
    • Damage to the hair can cause thinning over time
  • Measuring hair thickness
    
    • Visual and tactile observations
      
      • E.g. difficult to see or feels fine: fine hair
    • Microscopic measurements
      
      • Fine hair typically measures around 50 micrometres or less, medium hair around 60-90 micrometres, and coarse hair above 100 micrometres
      • Ponytail test
        
        • Put all hair into a ponytail and measure the circumference. The larger the circumference the thicker the hair.

• Density: number of hair strands per square inch.
  
  • Each follicle had one strand of hair so number of follicles impacts hair density
  • High density: large number of strands packed closely together, hair looks thick
    
    • Takes longer to dry
    • More prone to tangling
  • Low: density: few strands per square inch, hair looks thin.
    
    • Benefits from volumising products
    • Layers add the appearance of thickness
  • Factors affecting hair density
    
    • Genetics: The number of hair follicles is established during foetal development, at around the third month of gestation, and this impacts hair density.
    • Hair loss: caused by a range of factors such as medical conditions, lifestyle and improper hair care.
    • Age: as people age hair density may decrease, hormone changes impact on hair growth and density (androgens), life stages life pregnancy can impact hair density due to prolonged anagen phase of hair growth.
    • Hair care practice: excessive heat styling, chemical treatments and improper hair care can reduce hair density by damaging the hair.
  • Tests for hair density
    
    • Counting the number of stands in a certain area
    • Parting the hair and evaluating whether the scalp is visible.
  • Impact on styling
    
    • Fine Hair
      
      • Styling: Fine hair often benefits from volumizing products and lightweight styling techniques that add lift without weighing the hair down. It’s prone to becoming flat, so techniques like backcombing or using a root-lifting spray can help.
      • Care: Use lightweight, non-greasy shampoos and conditioners to avoid making hair look limp. Avoid heavy oils or creams that can weigh down fine hair.
    • Medium Hair
      
      • Styling: Medium hair is versatile and can hold most styles well. It responds well to various styling tools and products.
      • Care: Regular conditioning is important to maintain the balance of moisture and strength. Medium hair can generally handle most products without becoming too heavy or greasy.
    • Coarse Hair:
      
      • Styling: Coarse hair can hold styles well but may require more heat or stronger styling products to achieve certain looks, such as smooth, straight hair. It often benefits from deep conditioning and moisturising treatments.
      • Care: Use rich, hydrating shampoos and conditioners to keep coarse hair soft and manageable. Regular deep conditioning treatments can help maintain moisture and reduce roughness.

• Porosity
  
  • Low porosity
    
    • Tightly packed cuticles which lie flat
    • Difficult for moisture and products to penetrate the hair shaft
    • Characteristics
      
      • Hair takes longer to get wet
      • Products may sit on top of hair rather than being absorbed
      • Prone to product build-up
      • Resistant to chemical treatments
  • Hair styling advice
    
    • Use light products
    • Apply heat when deep conditioning
    • Avoid using too much product
    • Apply products to damp not soaking hair
  • Medium porosity
    
    • Slightly raised cuticle layer
    • Considered most manageable
    • Characteristics
      
      • Absorbs and retains moisture week
      • Responds well to styling
      • Holds styles longer
      • Less prone to damage
      • Requires minimal maintenance
  • Hair styling advice
    
    • Condition and moisturise regularly
    • Protect from environmental damage
    • Avoid overuse of heat and chemicals
  • High porosity
    
    • Raised or damaged cuticle layer
    • Allows moisture to easily enter hair but also allows moisture to escape quickly
    • Characteristics
      
      • Can feel rough
      • More prone to tangling
      • Can be dry
      • More vulnerable to damage
    • Hair styling advice
      
      • Use heavier, more moisturising products like oils, butter, and creams to help seal in moisture.
      • Regular deep conditioning treatments are beneficial to keep hair hydrated.
      • Avoid excessive heat styling and harsh chemical treatments that can further damage the cuticle layer.
  • Factors impacting hair porosity
    
    • Genetics: the natural structure of your hair's cuticle is largely determined by genetics, which can influence your hair's inherent porosity.
    • Chemical treatments: repeated use of hair dyes, relaxers, perms, and other chemical treatments can raise the cuticles, increasing hair porosity.
    • Heat styling: frequent use of hot tools like straighteners, curling irons, and blow dryers can damage the cuticle, leading to higher porosity.
    • Environmental factors: sun exposure, chlorine from swimming pools, saltwater, and pollution can all affect the hair cuticle, potentially increasing porosity.
    • Mechanical damage: rough handling, such as aggressive brushing, towel-drying, or tight hairstyles, can physically damage the cuticle, making hair more porous.
  • Testing hair porosity
    
    • Float Test: Take a clean strand of hair (preferably free of product) and place it in a glass of water.
      
      • Low Porosity: The strand floats on top of the water for an extended time before slowly sinking.
      • Medium Porosity: The strand floats in the middle of the glass.
      • High Porosity: The strand quickly sinks to the bottom of the glass.
  • Spray Bottle Test: Spray a mist of water onto a section of dry hair.
    
    • Low Porosity: Water beads up on the surface and takes time to absorb.
    • Medium Porosity: Water absorbs at a moderate rate, neither too fast nor too slow.
    • High Porosity: Water absorbs quickly into the hair.

Cutting tools

• Straight scissors: blunt cuts, point cutting, slicing.
• Thinning shears: one blade with teeth and one straight blade, remove bulk and create texture without changing length.
• Texturising shears: similar to thinning shears but with fewer teeth a more pronounced texturing effect.
• Adjustable clippers: adjustable blade for varying lengths, clipper guard attachments to control clipping length.
• Clippers: generally used for short hairstyles, can be used for detailing work straight razors precise clean cuts.
• Razor comb: combines a comb and a razor, allowing for cutting and combing simultaneously.
• Razors: soft feathered cuts, thin out thick hair, add movement and texture fine-tooth combs precisions cutting and styling.
• Wide-tooth comb: detangling, working through thick or curly hair clipper combs used with clippers, help achieve uniform length and blending.
• Trimmers or edgers: precision work, clear lines and sharp edges.
• Sectioning clips: hold hair in place and keep hair organised and sectioned.
• Blending cape and neck strips protective barrier.
• Spray bottle: moistened hair to make it easier to cut and style barbering chair adjustable for comfort and ergonomics, stability of client and stylist.

Products used to finish a haircut

• Styling cream or lotion: adds moisture, smoothness and definition to hair.
• Smoothing serum or oil: adds shine and enhances smoothness.
• Texturising spray or powder: adds texture, volume, and grip to the hair for a tousled or textured finish.
• Hairspray: provides hold and controls flyaways.
• Volumising moose or foam: adds volume and body to hair.
• Hair protectant spray: protects hair from heat, finishing pomade or wax defines and adds shine.
• Shine spray: enhances shine and lustre.
• Leave-in conditioner: provides moisture, detangles, and adds softness.
• Dry shampoo: absorbs excess oil and refreshes hair between washes.

4 Be able to cut hair using a range of techniques

Advise a client on a haircut that will suit them

• Ensure thorough consultation: hair history, personal style, lifestyle, and future changes.
• Analyse face shape and features: haircuts that will suit face shape.
• Consider hair type and texture.
• Evaluate hair density and condition.
• Assess practicality.
• Discuss hair goals and trends.
• Reference imagery: photographs, virtual makeover application.
• Make a professional recommendation: honesty, explain recommendations, and suggest modifications to a preferred style.

Section hair: clean, detangle, determine the number of sections needed, part the hair (middle or side), and ensure sections are neat.

Cut wet, dry and damp hair

• Wet hair: easier to comb and section, more manageable, can be cut more precisely, shows natural hair length better, washes and conditions hair, removes excess hair, cuts hair, factors in shrinkage, especially in curly hair.

• Dry hair: allows to see hair’s natural fall and shape, useful for precise adjustments and texturising, idea for curly and wavy hair as can see true length and curl pattern, ensure hair is clean, section hair, cut hair, mistakes more noticeable on dry hair.

• Damp hair: better control than dry hair, less stretchy than wet hair, easier to cut precisely without the level of shrinkage concern as wet hair; spray hair with a water spray bottle, section hair, cut hair, and ensure it evenly damp.

Cutting techniques: blunt cut, point cutting, slide cutting, uniform layering, graduated layering, texturising, razor cutting, channel cutting, slicing, slide cutting, undercut, freehand cutting, tapering, club cutting, scissor over comb, thinning, disconnecting.

Cut hair to create a fringe: part hair, create a section for fringe, section fringe into smaller

sections, determine required length, blunt cut fringe, textured or soft fringe, side-swept fringe, check throughout, refine shape throughout, style, apply the product.

Trim hair: assess hair for areas needing attention, section hair, blunt cut, point cut, slide cut, and ensure balance and symmetry.

Ensure client is free of cuttings: using a cape or drape, check throughout cut, brush or blow dry hair away, sweep hair from neck, careful remove cape or drape, the final visual inspection.

Apply finishing products: determine the amount of product needed, warn products by rubbing between hands, apply evenly, and choose appropriate products.

5 Understand the aftercare and maintenance following a hairdressing appointment

Importance of completing treatment to the satisfaction of the client: repeat business, loyalty, retention, positive word of mouth, recommendations, testimonies, professional reputation, trust, credibility, client confidence, client comfort, revenue, growth, continuous improvement, personal connection, customisation, quality assurance, consistency.

Treatment records:

• Content: medical history, contra-indications, past treatments, responses to treatments, concerns during treatment, and feedback from treatments.

• Importance: customised treatments, consistency, professional image, client confidence, legal protection, track progress, inventory management, client preferences, targeted promotion, training and development, feedback.

Aftercare advice that is required to be provided following a haircut: avoid washing hair immediately, products to use, minimise heat styling, schedule regular trims, protect from environmental damage, brush carefully to prevent breakage, moisturise and condition regularly, style specific advice.

how often they should be washing hair, recommend products, discuss heat products, UV products, protecting hair while swimming, nighttime care (silk or satin pillowcase), and follow-up appointments.

Process of gaining consent to post-treatment on social media:

• Inform the client of the purpose of posting content and the platforms content will be posted on.
• Written consent: consent forms, signature.
• Verbal confirmation: reiterate information, opportunity to decline.
• Respect privacy requests: anonymity options, partial consent.
• Digital documents: sharing documents securely, storage, electronic signatures.
• Final confirmation after taking photographs.

6 Be able to demonstrate post-treatment actions

Ascertain client satisfaction levels

• Spoken feedback at the end of the session: open-ended questions, active listening, accepting criticism, openness.
• Follow-up feedback requests: surveys, emails, follow-up discussions, reviews.

Take a photograph of hair

• Consent
• Equipment: camera phone, lighting, background
• Prepare client: clean, comfort
• Lighting: natural, artificial
• Background: contrasting colour, simple and clean
• Positioning the client
• Camera settings
• Multiple shots
• Editing pictures
• Client approval

Cleaning the floor following the haircut

• Sweep hair using a brush
• Using a vacuum cleaner to clear hair
• Mopping
• Disinfectant
• Wet floor signs
• Dry the floor
• Inspect for residual hair

Create a social media post about treatment: pictures, videos, platform, content, hashtags, tagging other users, confidentiality, client requests, and amount of content.

Dispose of waste in an environmentally friendly manner: hazardous waste (chemical, biohazards), recycling, following salon process, follow legal requirements, disposal of hair.