Competency Based Qualification

Creative Barbering and Beard Care

Advanced Diploma in Hairdressing

Unit Aim

On successful completion: Learners are equipped with the ability to apply theoretical and technical aspects of creative barbering and beard care. Learners gain an informed awareness of techniques used in barbering and beard care.

Unit Content

1 Understand barbering techniques

Contra-indications which would restrict barbering services

  • Severe acne: areas may be sensitive to touch, barber should avoid areas or work gently in area.
  • Minor Dermatitis or Eczema: may require the barber to avoid certain products or areas, or to use gentler techniques to minimise irritation.
  • Age restrictions: some barbering techniques or products may be unsuitable for young clients, and a parent or guardian's consent may be needed.
  • Recent surgeries or medications could affect skin sensitivity, which may require adjusted service.
  • Inability to sit comfortably for a period of time: The barber may need to shorten service or offer additional support.
  • Minor Cuts or Bruises: may require the barber to work around affected areas to avoid causing discomfort or infection.

Contra-indications which would prevent barbering services

  • Infection skin conditions: risk passing it to other clients through contamination of tools or equipment.
  • Severe dermatitis or eczema: can be irritated further by tools and treatments.
  • Open wounds or cuts: barbering services could increase the risk of infection.
  • Sunburns or burns: the skin will be highly sensitive and tools and equipment could cause pain and further damage to the skin.
  • Haemophilia and Bleeding disorders: barbing services would be unsafe due to the risk of cuts or minor nicks.
  • Compromised immune system: may be more susceptible to infections from minor abrasions or contact with tools.
  • Fungal infection and viral infections: risk passing it to other clients through contamination of tools or equipment.
  • Known allergies to intended products

Barbering techniques used to cut hair

  • Clippers (fade cut, clipper over comb)
  • Scissors cutting (point cutting, blunt cutting, texturising)
  • Razor cutting (freehand razor cutting, razor over comb)
  • Tapering
  • Blending
  • Thinning (thinning shears, slithering)
  • Edging and outlining (edges and trimmers, detail work)
  • Blow drying and styling (blow drying, brush techniques)
  • Shaving (straight razor shaving, hot towel shaves)
  • Sectioning and parting (sectioning, parting)
  • Clipper guard techniques (using guards, guard blending)
  • Comb techniques (scissor over comb, clipper over comb)
  • Texturising and finishing (slide cutting, feathering)

Importance of weight distribution

  • Ensuring balance and proportion (symmetry and proportionality)
  • Hair movement and flow (natural movement, flow)
  • Ensuing cut is customised for different hair types, ease of styling, adaptability, enhance features (face shape, head shape)
  • Longevity of haircut (maintain shape, consistency)
  • Techniques for weight distribution (layering, thinning, texturising, graduation)
  • Client satisfaction (comfort and appearance)

2 Be able to cut hair using a combination of barbering techniques

Position self and client: comfort, ergonomics, access to hair and client, visuals, lighting.

Appropriate level of tension to hair

  • Understand hair types
    • More tension for straight hair
    • Less tension to curly or wavy hair to avoid stretching
    • Gentle tension for fine hair to prevent breakages
    • Moderate to firm tension needed for thick hair
  • Use comb to create and control
  • Use fingers to adapt tension as needed
  • Work in small consistent sections
  • Adapt tension to cutting style, different tension for different areas of the head
  • Move client’s head as needed
  • Keep client’s head in natural potions
  • Wet and dry hair will require different tension

Adapt barbering technique to needs of client

  • Consult consultation notes
    • Style preferences any issues
  • Hair type
  • Face shape
  • Lifestyle personalised advice
  • Communicate with client throughout
  • Adapt to health considerations
  • Final adjustments
  • Check for client satisfaction.

Ensure cut is completed to satisfaction of client: communication, open communication, show entire cut, collect feedback.

3 Understand the use of barber tools to create facial hair shapes

Facial hair types:

  • Clean shaven: completely hair-free.
  • Stubble: light stubble, heavy stubble.
  • Beard: short beard full facial hair growth, trimmed close to face.
  • Medium beard: extend a little from face.
  • Long beard: full beard that extends from face, often styles.
  • Classic goatee: hair on chin only, full goatee hair on chin and moustache which is connected.
  • Chevron moustache: thick and full, covers entire upper lip.
  • Handlebar: full moustache with ends curled upwards.
  • Pencil moustache: thin, narrow, just above upper lip.
  • Mutton chops: thick sideburns that extend to the corners of the mouth, often connected with a moustache.
  • Sideburns: hair that extends from the hairline down the sides of the face to varying lengths.
  • Soul patch small patch of hair just below the lower lip.
  • Van Dyke: combination of a goatee and moustache, with the moustache and goatee not connected.
  • Balbo: beard style that includes a trimmed beard without sideburns and a floating moustache.

Face shapes

  • Oval: forehead slightly wider than chin, face length about one and a half times the width, rounded jawline.
  • Round face shapes: face is nearly as wide as long, cheekbones are widest part of face, jawline and fine are rounded and not as pronounced.
  • Square face shape: forehead, cheekbones and jawline about the same width, strong angular jawline.
  • Heart face shape: forehead is widest part, cheekbones are prominent, chin is narrow and pointed.
  • Diamond face shape: narrow forehead and jawline, cheekbones are widest part of face and are high on face, face length is lightly longer than width.
  • Oblong or rectangle face shape: length is noticeably longer than its width, forehead, cheekbones and jawline about the same width, jawline usually more rounded than square.
  • Triangle or pear face shape: jawline is widest part, forehead and cheekbones are narrower, face length is typically a bit longer than its width.
  • Inverted triangle face shape: forehead is the widest part, jawline is narrow, similar to heat shape but with no pointed chin, face length is slightly longer than width.

Neckline shapes:

  • Tapered or natural: follows the natural hairline, gradually shortening the hair down to the nape of the neck, blends seamlessly with natural hair growth, soft and subtle finish, ideal for more conservative or classic look.
  • Blocked or square neckline: hair is cut straight across the nape, creating a clean, defined line, sharp squared-off edge, creates a more structured and bold look, can make neck appear wider.
  • Round neckline: hair is cut in a curved shape at the nape, creating a softer, rounded edge, softens the appearance of the neck, blends hairline without the sharpness of a blocked neckline, can create a gentle, rounded aesthetic.
  • V-shaped neckline: hair is cut into a V shape at the nape, with the point of the V extending down the neck, dynamic and edgy look, can elongated neck, more modern and stylish finish.
  • Angled neckline: hair is cut at an angle, typically tapering from the sides down towards a point at the centre of the nape, provides a blend of sharpness and natural tapering, create an illusion of a longer neck, offers a distinctive yet balanced look.

Facial hair growth patterns

  • Patchy growth
    • Uneven growth with areas of dense hair and sparse or bare patches.
    • Common on areas like the cheeks or jawline.
    • Can be due to genetics, hormonal imbalances, or conditions such as alopecia.
    • People with patchy growth may find it difficult to achieve a full beard and often opt for styles that complement this natural pattern.
  • Full growth
    • Even, dense hair growth across the face.
    • Ideal for various beard styles as it provides a solid foundation for shaping and trimming.
    • Full growth is generally genetic and can appear earlier or later depending on the individual’s hormone levels and hair growth cycles.
  • Slow growth
    • Facial hair that takes a long time to grow, with hairs appearing sparsely or taking months to reach a noticeable length.
    • Factors influencing slow growth include genetics, hormonal levels, and health conditions.
    • Those with slow growth may need to be patient and avoid frequent shaving if aiming for longer styles.
  • Fast growth
    • Fast growth indicates a quick rate of facial hair growth, with noticeable length within a few days to a week.
    • Often requires regular trimming or maintenance, especially for those who prefer a shorter, tidy appearance.
    • Factors such as higher testosterone levels and genetic predisposition contribute to faster facial hair growth.
  • Curly or coarse growth
    • Hair growth in tight curls or has a coarse texture.
    • May be prone to tangling and can require special care, like conditioning and detangling, to maintain smoothness.
    • Can cause issues like ingrown hairs, which might necessitate additional grooming steps such as exfoliation.
    • Straight growth
    • Hair grows straight with minimal curl or wave.
    • Typically easier to manage and style, as straight hair lies flat against the skin and often requires less maintenance.
    • Can be ideal for those looking to achieve a sleek, uniform look in their facial hair.
  • Wavy growth
    • Hair has a natural wave, falling between straight and curly.
    • Can provide a fuller appearance without the tight curls seen in coarser growth types.
    • May require styling products to control the shape and direction of the wave, depending on the desired look.
  • Curly growth
    • Grows in tight coils or spirals, giving the beard a fuller, denser appearance.
    • Often thicker and coarser than straight beard hair, contributing to a more textured look and feel.
    • The natural curls make it difficult for oils to travel from the skin to the ends, resulting in dryness and potential brittleness.
    • Curly hair is more likely to grow back into the skin, leading to ingrown hairs and bumps, especially if the beard is cut close to the skin.
  • Coily growth
    • Forms in tight, defined coils that add a lot of volume and density to the beard.
    • Curl pattern makes it harder for natural oils from the skin to reach the hair ends, leading to dryness, brittleness, and increased breakage.
    • High degree of shrinkage, which can make the beard appear shorter than its actual length.
    • More likely to curl back into the skin, resulting in ingrown hairs that can be painful and cause bumps or irritation.
  • Cowlick and whorls
    • Hair grows in circular patterns or has unruly sections that stick out.
    • Can be challenging to manage and may require specific cutting or styling techniques to control direction.
    • Unique to each individual and can contribute to a distinctive look, though they may require more frequent trims for maintenance.

Historical facial hair trends: (many of these trends are based around Western trends and styles, please add content relevant to own region and content can be added to reflect more recent history)

  • Ancient Egypt: clean-shaved or styled with goatees and false beards, sign of cleanliness and status.
  • Ancient Greece: full breads common, symbol of wisdom and virility.
  • Romans: initially bearded, later clean shaven, clean-shaven symbolise civilisation and order, influenced by Emperor Augustus.
  • Early Middle Ages: full beards and moustaches, sign of masculinity and strength.
  • Later Middle Ages: clean-shaven or short beards, influenced by church, desire for more controlled and refined appearance.
  • 15th-17th Century: elaborate beard and moustache, influenced by royalty and nobility.
  • 18th Century: clean shaven, enlightenment ideals of rationality and the influence of the wig-wearing aristocracy, sideburns became fashionable later, influenced by military styles.
  • Victorian Era: full beards, sideburns and moustaches, symbol of maturity, respectability, and rugged masculinity.
  • 1910s-1920s: clean shaven, influence of WW1 and rise of Hollywood stars, 1930s-1940s thin moustaches, inspired by movie stars.
  • 1950s: clean shaven or subtle moustaches, conformity and clean-cut look, 1960s beard and long hair, counter culture movement.
  • 1970s: thick moustaches, sideburns and beards, continued influence of counter culture.
  • 1980s: varied, range of influences.
  • 1990s: stubble and goatees, influenced by grunge and alternative music scene.
  • 2000s: varied.
  • 2010s: full beards, moustaches, and well-groomed stubble, rise of “lumbersexual” trend and resurgence in traditional barbering, hipster movement.

Contra-indications which would prevent facial hair shaping services:

  • Infection skin conditions: risk passing it to other clients through contamination of tools or equipment.
  • Severe dermatitis or eczema: can be irritated further by tools and treatments.
  • Open wound or cuts: barbering services could increase the risk of infection.
  • Sunburns or burns: the skin will be highly sensitive and tools and equipment could cause pain and further damage to the skin.
  • Haemophilia and Bleeding disorders: barbing services would be unsafe due to the risk of cuts or minor nicks.
  • Compromised immune system (such as autoimmune diseases or cancer treatment): may be more susceptible to infections from minor abrasions or contact with tools.
  • Uncontrolled diabetes: Poor wound healing or increased risk of infection in clients with uncontrolled diabetes can make shaping hazardous.
  • Fungal infection and viral infections: risk passing it to other clients through contamination of tools or equipment.
  • Known allergies to intended products
  • Recent surgeries on head or face: if clients have undergone recent facial or head surgeries, shaving or shaping in the affected area can increase the risk of complications or re-open healing incisions.
  • Recent cosmetic procedures (chemical peels, laser treatments, or microneedling): Skin is highly sensitive after these procedures, and any facial hair shaping can cause further irritation, damage, or delay healing.

Contra-indications which would restrict facial hair shaping services:

  • Severe acne: areas may be sensitive to touch, barber should avoid areas or work gently in area.
  • Minor Dermatitis or Eczema: may require the barber to avoid certain products or areas, or to use gentler techniques to minimise irritation.
  • Age restrictions: some barbering techniques or products may be unsuitable for young clients, and a parent or guardian's consent may be needed.
  • Inability to sit comfortably for a period of time: barber may need to shorted service or offer additional support.
  • Minor Cuts or Bruises: may require the barber to work around affected areas to avoid causing discomfort or infection.
  • Older cosmetic procedures: for clients who had treatments like Botox or dermal fillers within the past few weeks, it may be advisable to avoid the treated area to prevent disruption.
  • Scaring: shape around scars as shaving over scar tissue can be damaging or uncomfortable.
  • Moles or skin tags: should not be shaved over, as they are prone to nicking, which could lead to bleeding or infection.

4 Be able to design and create a range of facial hair shapes

Researching current facial hair trends

  • Social media
    • Influencers,
    • Industry pages
  • Websites
  • Magazines
  • Online forums and communities
  • Discussions with peers
  • Market research
  • Trend analysis
  • Observing styles
  • Document trends
  • Experiment.

Trim facial hair to create a facial hair shape: wash and dry beard, choose right length, outline shape, trim neckline, trim cheeks and jawline, trim moustache, shape the beard, detailing and shaping, check and adjust, final touches (clean stray hair, refine edges, apply beard oil or balm, style if needed).

Remove facial hair to create a facial hair shape

  • Shaving: prepare skin, apply shaving cream or gel, shave with grain, define the shape, rinse and assess, aftercare
  • Waxing: cleanse and prepare, heat and apply wax, apply wax strips, remove wax strips, repeat as needed, cleanse and soothe

Shape and balance sideburns: assess length and placement, comb and trim, outline shape, check for balance, refine and detail, final touches, adjust for face shape, start conservatively.

Create a facial hair shape on a client with facial piercings

  • Evaluate piercings: locations, type, size
  • Plan shape: choose shape that suits and fits with piercing, account for growth patterns
  • Shape around piercing: precision, avoid direct contact with piercing, use small tools
  • Modify technique around piercing
  • Blend seamlessly
  • Maintain symmetry

Ensuring facial hair shape meets client expectations

  • Visual demonstrations (mirrors to show entire look)
  • Adjust as groom
  • Be open to change
  • Ask for feedback
  • Address concerns
  • Seek approval on final look
  • Provide guidance
  • Encourage follow-up feedback.

5 Understand the aftercare and maintenance following barber session

Importance of completing a treatment to the satisfaction of the client: repeat business, loyalty, retention, positive word of mouth, recommendations, testimonies, professional reputation, trust, credibility, client confidence, client comfort, revenue, growth, continuous improvement, personal connection, customisation, quality assurance, consistency.

Treatment records:

  • Content: medical history, contra-indications, past treatments, responses to treatments, concerns during treatment, feedback from treatments
  • Importance: customised treatments, consistency, professional image, client confidence, legal protection, track progress, inventory management, client preferences, targeted promotion, training and development, feedback

Aftercare advice that is required to be provided following a barber appointment: how often they should be washing hair, recommend products, discuss heat products, UV products, protecting hair while swimming, nighttime care (silk or satin pillowcase), follow-up appointments.

Process of gaining consent to post-treatment on social media:

  • Inform client: purpose of posting content, platforms content will be posted on
  • Written consent: consent forms, signature
  • Verbal conformation: reiterate information, opportunity to decline
  • Respect privacy requests: anonymity options, partial consent
  • Digital documents
  • Final conformation after taking photographs

6 Be able to demonstrate post-treatment actions

Ascertain client satisfaction levels

  • Spoken feedback at end of session: open-ended questions, active listening, accepting criticism, openness
  • Follow-up feedback requests: surveys, emails, follow-up discussion, reviews

Take photograph of hair

  • Consent
  • Equipment: camera phone, lighting, background
  • Prepare client: clean, comfort
  • Lighting: natural, artificial
  • Background: contrasting colour, simple and clean
  • Positioning the client
  • Camera settings
  • Multiple shots
  • Editing pictures
  • Client approval

Create a social media post about treatment: pictures, videos, platform, content, hashtags, tagging other users, confidentiality, client requests, amount of content

Dispose of waste in an environmentally friendly manner: hazardous waste (chemical, biohazards), recycling, following salon process, follow legal requirements, disposal of hair

Recommended Text

<div> <ul style="list-style-type: none; padding: 0;"> <li> Ford, G., & Stewart, H. (2009). <em>Hairdressing with barbering and African Type Hair Units</em>. Heinemann. <br> <a href="https://amzn.to/4j5ubSc" target="_blank" class="button">Buy on Amazon</a> </li> <li> Green, M., & Palladino, L. (2014). <em>Professional Hairdressing & Barbering: The Official Guide to Level 3</em>. Habia. <br> <a href="https://amzn.to/3E4qMV4" target="_blank" class="button">Buy on Amazon</a> </li> </ul> </div>