Chemical Reformation and Styling Hair

1 Understand the safe handling of chemicals

Chemicals used in a saloon that require additional safety precautions

• Ammonia
  
  • Used to open hair cuticles so that chemicals can penetrate the hair shaft.
  • Found in hair colouring and bleaching products.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Ventilation
    • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): gloves, mask if needed
    • Storage: store in a cool dry place
• Hydrogen Peroxide
  
  • Found in hair colouring and disinfecting tools.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Eye Protection: avoid contact with eyes; wear protective eyewear if needed.
    • Gloves: wear gloves to prevent skin irritation.
    • Storage: keep it in a tightly sealed container, away from direct sunlight and heat
• Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
  
  • Found in hair relaxers and depilatory creams.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Avoid contact with skin and eyes.
    • Have neutralising solutions on hand.
• Thioglycolic Acid
  
  • Found in perm solutions and hair removal creams.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Use in a well-ventilated area.
    • Wear gloves.
    • Patch test prior to application to ensure no allergic reaction.
• Paraphenylenediamine (PPD)
  
  • Found in hair dyes, particularly dark shades.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Avoid inhaling.
    • Wear gloves.
    • Patch test prior to application to ensure no allergic reaction.

• Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde Releasers
  
  • Found in some hair straitening treatments such as keratin treatments.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Ensure proper ventilation.
    • Use gloves and masks to avoid inhalation and skin contact.
    • Inform clients about the presence of formaldehyde and provide them with protective measures like masks.

• Isopropyl Alcohol
  
  • Found in disinfectants and some hair products.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Store away from heat and flame.
    • Ensure proper ventilation.
    • Wear gloves.
• Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)
  
  • Found in shampoos, conditioners, and cleaning products.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Wear gloves.
    • Keep away from the eyes.
    • Perform a patch test prior to use.
• Phthalates
  
  • Found in many hair products such as hair spray.
  • Safety precautions
    
    • Limit exposure.
    • Ensure proper ventilation.

Safety precautions to consider when relaxing hair: consultation, patch test, protective measures, sectioning to ensure even distribution, timing process, ventilation, handling chemicals, posture, and ergonomics.

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Safety precautions to consider when perming hair

• Hair and scalp assessment
  
  • Assess the client's hair for any signs of damage, such as brittleness, split ends, or previous chemical treatments.
    
    • Hair that is overly processed or damaged may not withstand the perming process and could break or become further damaged.
  • Inspect the scalp for any cuts, abrasions, infections, or irritations.
    
    • Do not proceed with the perm if the scalp is compromised, as chemicals can cause further irritation or infection.
• Patch testing
  
  • Conduct a patch test at least 24-48 hours before the perm to check for allergic reactions.
    
    • Apply a small amount of the perm solution to a discreet area of skin, such as behind the ear, and monitor for any redness, itching, or swelling.
• Well-ventilated area
  
  • Ensure the salon or workspace is well-ventilated to avoid inhaling fumes from the perm solution.
  • Chemical fumes can cause respiratory irritation, headaches, or dizziness.
• Protect client’s skin and hair
  
  • Barrier cream: apply a barrier cream or petroleum jelly around the hairline, ears, and neck to protect the skin from the perm solution.
  • Eye protection: be cautious not to let the perm solution drip into the client's eyes.
    
    • Consider using a protective towel or cotton pad around the forehead.

Safety precautions to consider when using keratin

• Check ingredient list for Formaldehyde.
  
  • Where possible select a product without Formaldehyde
• Use in a well-ventilated area.
• Wear required Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
  
  • Chemical-resistant gloves.
  • Mask.
  • Eye protection.
• Protect the client
  
  • Give a mask.
  • Cover client's clothes and skin.
  • Ensure client's eyes are covered.
  • Ventilation
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions.
• Apply heat carefully.
• Minimise exposure.
• Emergency preparedness
  
  • Eye wash station.
  • First aid kit.

2 Be able to handle chemicals safely 

First aid for chemical accidents

• Be aware of the dangers associated with the product being used.
• Skin contact
  
  • Rinse the affected area immediately with plenty of cool running water for at least 15-20 minutes.
  • Carefully remove any clothing or accessories that may have come into contact with the chemical to prevent further skin exposure.
  • After thorough rinsing, wash the area with mild soap and water, then rinse again to ensure all traces of the chemical are removed.
  • Check for signs of burns, redness, blisters, or other skin reactions. If the skin appears burned or irritated, do not apply any ointments or creams without medical advice.
  • If the chemical burn is severe or covers a large area, seek medical attention immediately.
• Eye contact
  
  • If a chemical gets into the eyes, start flushing the eye(s) immediately with lukewarm water. Continue rinsing for at least 15-20 minutes, keeping the eyelid(s) open and making sure the water flows away from the unaffected eye.
  • Do not rub the eyes, as this can cause further irritation or damage.
  • If the individual is wearing contact lenses and they do not come out during flushing, remove them carefully after the initial rinsing, then continue to rinse the eye.
  • Eye exposure to chemicals can be serious. Even if symptoms seem to improve, seek medical attention immediately after flushing.
• Inhalation of fumes
  
  • Immediately move individual to an area with fresh air.
  • Observe the individual’s breathing. If they are having difficulty breathing or are coughing excessively, loosen tight clothing and keep them calm.
  • If the individual experiences continued breathing difficulties, dizziness, or nausea, seek emergency medical assistance immediately.
• Ingestion of chemicals
  
  • Do not induce vomiting unless specifically instructed to do so by a medical professional.
  • Have the individual rinse their mouth thoroughly with water. Ensure they spit out the water after rinsing, rather than swallowing it.
  • Identify the chemical ingested and provide this information to emergency services or poison control.
  • Contact poison control or seek emergency medical attention immediately, as ingestion of salon chemicals can be life-threatening.
• Chemical burns
  
  • Rinse the affected area with cool running water for at least 20 minutes.
  • After rinsing, loosely cover the burn with a sterile, non-stick bandage or clean cloth.
  • Avoid using ointments, butter, or any other home remedies.
  • Do not pop or break any blisters that may form, as this can lead to infection.
  • For any chemical burn, especially those that are severe, cover large areas, or affect sensitive areas like the face or genitals, seek medical attention immediately.

Completing an accident report

• Required information: what happened, when it happened, who was affected, what chemical was involved, first aid action taken.
• Storing an accident report: data protection, secure storage.
• Ensure the required members of staff are aware of incident.
• Consider future measures to ensure accident does not occur again.

Disposing of chemicals in an environmentally friendly way: understand local legislation (how to dispose of waste, which type of waste is being disposed of), hazardous waste disposal, labelling, specialist chemical disposal services, do not pour down drain (environmental damage).

3 Understand the process of relaxing hair

Products used to relax hair

• Relaxer creams: primary product, contain chemicals that break down protein bonds in the hair shaft
  
  • Two types: lye-based and no-lye
• Neutralising shampoos: stop chemical reaction of relaxer creams
• Conditioning treatments: restore moisture and strengthen hair
• Pre-relaxer base or protectant: used to protect scalp and previously relaxed hair
• Post-relaxer oils or serums: add shine, provide moisture after treatment
• Rebalancing products: balance pH of scalp, soothe scalp
• Texlax: loosens hair without fully straightening it

Factors to be considered when relaxing hair: texture of hair, curl pattern, porosity, density, scalp condition, allergies, previous hair treatments (relaxation sessions, colour treatments, perm) desired style and maintenance, professional expertise, aftercare and maintenance, health hair goals.

Tools used to relax hair: applicator brush or comb, mixing bowl and applicator stick, protective base sectioning clips, comb, neutralising shampoo and conditioner, towels, disposable gloves, timer and salon cape, relaxer application, gloves.

Impact relaxing can have on the hair:

• Positive impact
  
  • Increased manageability
  • Versatility in styling
• Negative impacts
  
  • Chemical damage
  • Scalp irritation and sensitivity
  • Hair thinning and loss
  • Hair melting
  • Maintenance requirements
• • General impacts
• Temporary volume reduction
• Straightening effect
• Altered hair texture

Possible complications that can occur during a relaxation session: scalp irritation and burns, over- processing, hair breakage, allergic reactions, chemical odour and fumes, eye and skin contact.

Impact of relaxing treatments on grey hair

• • Grey hair tends to absorb chemicals faster
  
  • Higher porosity and coarseness
• Greater risk of over-processing
• Can smooth cuticles
• Can alter colour – can causes yellowing
• Change in texture

Aftercare guidance that is required to be provided following a relaxation session: moisturising and conditioning, gentle handling and styling, protecting hair at night (scarf, pillowcases), avoiding overprocessing, regular trimming, sun and environmental factors, follow-ups, hydration and nutrition, monitoring scalp health, instances when medical advice is needed.

4 Be able to relax hair

How to carry out relaxing testing: consult with client, cut a small piece of hair to test relaxer on, mix and apply relaxer, set time according to instructions, observe, rinse off, dry and evaluate (wait/watch for 24 to 48 hours), discontinue if any reaction appear, record findings, discuss results with client, adjust treatment plan based on results.

Selecting appropriate relaxing products based on consultation, skin and hair analysis and relaxing testing: sensitivity, knowledge of products, strength of products, manufactures guidance. 

Using a scalp protector: prepare hair, patch test, apply prior to treatment, creams, gels, sprays, avoid excessive contact with hair.

How to relax hair:

• Follow instructions on product guide/information
• Prepare hair time application
• Avoid overlap of product (on new growth)
• Apply protectant to scalp and roots
• Start with the thickest part of the hair
• Follow required order of products
• Use products safely
• Areas of hair to relax
  
  • Virgin hair
  • Re-growth application
• Position self and client correctly during relaxation session
  
  • Ergonomics
  • Comfort
  • Lighting
  • Visibility
  • Access

Adapting relaxation session to clients' unique needs: hair type, scalp evaluation, strength of relaxer, adjust application technique, product selection, timing, scalp protection and comfort, providing guidance post-session.

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Styling relaxed hair

• Prior to styling
  
  • Use a sulphate-free shampoo to gently cleanse the hair, removing buildup without stripping moisture.
  • Apply a deep conditioner or protein treatment to strengthen and restore moisture balance.
  • Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water to maintain elasticity.
  • Use a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush to remove knots and tangles while hair is still damp.
  • Start detangling from the ends, gradually working your way to the roots to prevent breakage.
  • Use a leave-in conditioner for hydration and added manageability.
  • Apply heat protectant if heat styling will be used, or mousse/gel for definition if air drying.
• Roller Setting: creates smooth, voluminous curls or waves.
  
  • Choose roller size based on desired curl (larger rollers for loose curls, smaller for tighter ones).
  • Comb each section of hair smooth, then apply a setting lotion or mousse for hold.
  • Wrap the hair around the roller from ends to roots, ensuring even tension.
  • Secure the roller with clips or pins, and repeat for all sections.
• Twisting: creates defined twists or curls, suitable for protective styles or textured looks.
  
  • Part each section into two smaller strands.
  • Apply a curl cream or gel for moisture and hold.
  • Twist the two strands over each other, keeping tension consistent.
  • Secure the ends with a small elastic or twist them until they coil naturally.
• Braiding (Plaits): achieves defined waves or a textured finish, suitable for both setting and protective styling.
  
  • Divide each section into three strands.
  • Begin braiding by alternately crossing the outer strands over the middle strand.
  • Continue to the ends, maintaining even tension.
  • For crimped waves, apply setting mousse before braiding and allow to set overnight or under a dryer.
• Flat Ironing: provides a sleek, straight style or smooth base for curls.
  
  • Use a heat protectant to prevent damage.
  • Ensure the hair is completely dry before using a flat iron.
  • Take small sections of hair (about 1–2 inches wide) for even heat distribution.
  • Glide the flat iron down each section slowly from roots to ends.
  • For curled ends, rotate the flat iron inward or outward at the tips.
• Flexi Rod Setting: creates springy, spiral curls with a natural finish.
  
  • Dampen each section with water or apply a styling mousse.
  • Wrap the hair around a flexi rod, starting from the ends and rolling toward the roots.
  • Bend the rod to secure it in place.
  • Allow the hair to air dry or sit under a hooded dryer.
• Bantu Knots: produces tight, defined curls or waves when unraveled.
  
  • Twist small sections of hair tightly, coiling them around themselves to form a knot.
  • Secure with a small elastic or tuck the ends under the knot.
  • Once set, unravel carefully to avoid frizz, leaving tight curls or waves.
• Pin Curling: creates vintage-style curls or waves.
  
  • Take small sections of damp hair and curl them around your fingers to form a spiral.
  • Secure the spiral flat against the scalp using pins or clips.
  • Allow to dry fully before removing pins and styling.
• Blow Drying with a Round Brush: adds volume, smoothness, or flips at the ends.
  
  • Use a heat protectant before starting.
  • Wrap each section of hair around a round brush, starting at the roots.
  • Aim the blow dryer nozzle downward while pulling the brush through to the ends.
  • Rotate the brush for curved ends or flicks.
• After styling
  
  • Allow the hair to air dry for a natural finish if time permits.
    
    • Alternatively, sit under a hooded dryer to set the style and reduce drying time.
  • Allow the hair to fully set and dry before touching to maintain the style.
  • Gently separate curls or twists to add volume, avoiding frizz.
  • Use fingers or a pick for fluffing to achieve the desired shape and fullness.
  • Apply a lightweight serum or oil for shine and to smooth flyaways.
  • Use a holding spray for extra hold or frizz control, ensuring the style lasts longer.
  • Finish with an edge control product for sleek edges, if desired.

Methods to advise client of maintenance and aftercare:

• Verbal guidance
• Printed guidance
• Email guidance
• Links to helpful resources
• Follow-up communication
• Warnings about not following advice
• Accessibility requirements for advice
  
  • Large print
  • Language usage (clarity, speed)
• Ensuring understanding

5 Understand the processes of perming hair 

Products used to perm hair

• Perm lotion (perming solution)
  
  • The primary ingredient in perm lotion is usually ammonium thioglycolate or glyceryl monothioglycolate.
    
    • These chemicals work by breaking down the disulfide bonds in the hair’s keratin structure, making it pliable and able to take on a new shape.
  • Types
    
    • Alkaline Perm: Contains ammonium thioglycolate, with a pH of around 8-9.5. It's suitable for coarse, thick, or resistant hair types.
  • Acid Perm: Contains glyceryl monothioglycolate, with a pH of 4.5-7.0. It is gentler and better suited for fine or damaged hair.
• Neutraliser
  
  • The neutraliser re-establishes the disulfide bonds in the hair after the perm lotion has been rinsed out, "locking" the hair into its new shape.
  • Typically contains hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate.
• Pre-perm treatment
  
  • Used to prepare the hair for the perming process, ensuring even absorption of the perm lotion.
  • Typically contains proteins and conditioning agents to protect the hair and improve the perming results.
• Barrier cream
  
  • Applied around the hairline, ears, and neck to prevent the perm solution from irritating the skin.
• Conditioning treatment
• pH balancing shampoo

Factors to be considered when perming hair

• Hair type and condition
  
  • Different hair types and textures of hair will react to perming differently.
  • Deep condition before perming if applying to damaged hair.
• Desired outcome
  
  • The size of the rods used and the strength of the perm solution will affect the final result.
• Type of perm solution
  
  • Alkaline perms: ideal for resistant hair, creating firm curls.
  • Acidic perms: suitable for damaged or colour-treated hair, offering softer curls and less potential for damage.
  • Neutral perms: balanced for most hair types, providing a standard curl formation.
• Ensure adequate ventilation to avoid inhalation of perming solution.
• Tools used to perm hair
• Perm papers (end papers)
  
  • Used to protect the ends of the hair and ensure that the hair wraps smoothly around the perm rods without creating fishhooks or uneven curls.
  • Typically made from thin, porous paper that absorbs excess moisture and allows for even distribution of the perm solution.
• Perm rods
  
  • Used to wrap the hair and determine the size and shape of the curls or waves.
• Protective gloves and cap
• Application tools
• Combs
• Processing caps
  
  • Used during processing to retain heat and moisture
• Processing wraps
  
  • Can be used to cover hair and prevent solution dripping.
• Hair dryer
  
  • Can help activate perm solution and improve curl formation.
• Heat lamp
  
  • Used to maintain constant temperature
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Impact a perm can have on the hair

• Changes in texture
  
  • Creates curls or waves by breaking and reforming the hair’s internal bonds
    
    • Curl pattern created will depend on strength of perm solution and size or rods used.
  • Permanent change in hair texture.
• Increased dryness
  
  • Perms can strip the hair of its natural oil leading to dryness.
• Damage to the hair
  
  • Chemicals used in perms can weaken the hair structure.
    
    • More vulnerable to breakage
  • Over-processing can cause damage to the hair.
• Changes in porosity
  
  • Perms can cause hair to become more porous.
• Can impact the colour of any hair dyes on hair.
• New growth will not be affected by perm leaving sections of permed and unpermed hair.
• Can make hair less flexible and prone to damage.
• Can irritate the scalp.
• Possible complications that can occur during a perm session
• Chemical burns or scalp irritation
  
  • Prevention: perform a scalp check before the treatment, avoid applying the solution directly to the scalp, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for processing time. If irritation occurs, rinse immediately with cool water.
• Allergic reactions
  
  • Prevention: patch test prior to perm, do not proceed if an allergic reaction occurs
• Overprocessing or hair damage
  
  • Prevention: use product appropriate for hair, monitor processing closely, avoid overlapping treatment.
• Uneven curling
  
  • Prevention: apply the solution evenly and ensure uniform rod placement and tension when wrapping the hair, use the appropriate rod size for the desired curl pattern.
• Chemical incompatibility
  
  • Prevention: review the client’s hair history and avoid perming recently coloured, relaxed, or previously permed hair unless sufficient time has passed.
• Insufficient curl formation
  
  • Prevention: choose appropriate strength of perm solution.
• Hair breakage or shredding
  
  • Prevention: assess hair condition before commencement. If hair is damaged consider conditioning treatment prior to perm or do not do perm if damage is significant.
• Distinct smell
  
  • Prevention: ensure neutralising properly and rinsing hair after treatment.
• Eye and skin irritation
  
  • Prevention
    
    • Protect client's eyes and skin
    • In case of contact with eyes or skin, rinse immediately with cool water.
• Colour changes
  
  • Prevention
    
    • Colour safe perm treatments
    • Advise client on post-perm colour care.

Aftercare guidelines following a perm

• Hair washing
  
  • Wait at least 48 hours before washing.
  • Follow manufacturers instructions
  • Use a sulphate-free shampoo.
• Be gentle with hair
  
  • Use a wide-tooth comb instead of a brush.
  • Start combing from the ends and work your way up to prevent tangling.
  • Pat hair dry rather than rubbing the hair dry.
• Moisturise regularly
  
  • Use a moisturising conditioner after every wash to keep your hair hydrated.
  • Permed hair can be more prone to dryness, so deep conditioning treatments once a week are recommended.
  • Apply a leave-in conditioner or curl-enhancing cream to maintain moisture and define curls.
• Protect hair while sleeping
  
  • Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase.
  • Pineapple Technique: Consider loosely gathering your hair at the top of your head (a method called "pineappling") to preserve curl shape overnight.
• Minimise heat styling
• Protect hair from environmental factors: the sun, saltwater, chlorine.
• Regular trims every 6-8 weeks will help maintain the health of permed hair by preventing split ends and keeping the curls looking fresh.
• Choose hair products specifically designed for permed or curly hair.
• Minimise touching and styling.
• Keep an eye on the condition of your hair. If it becomes excessively dry or brittle, incorporate more moisturizing treatments or consult with your stylist for additional care advice.
• Always wear disposable gloves when handling perm solutions to protect your hands from chemical burns or irritation.
•  Carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the perm solution, including processing times and application methods. Deviating from these instructions can lead to over-processing or insufficient results.
• Ensure the perm solution is mixed correctly according to the manufacturer's guidelines.
• Test the perm solution on a small section of hair to see how it reacts, especially if the client has had previous chemical treatments.
• Do not perm hair that has recently been treated with other chemicals, such as relaxers, bleach, or permanent hair colour, unless sufficient time has passed. Mixing these treatments can cause severe damage to the hair.
• Emergency procedure
  
  • Keep an eye wash station or saline solution readily available in case the perm solution accidentally comes into contact with the eyes.
  • Be familiar with first aid procedures for chemical burns or allergic reactions.
• Follow local regulations for the safe disposal of chemical waste. Do not pour leftover perm solution down the sink or drain, as it can be harmful to the environment.

6 Be able to perm hair

Prepare to perm hair: shampoo hair, towel dry until damp.

Wrapping hair for a perm:

• Section hair
  
  • Divide into four sections and then divide these into smaller sections to match size of perms rods being used.
• Apply end papers
  
  • Put end papers on tips of hair
  • Prevents damage during perming.
• Wrap hair around rods
  
  • Start at ends
    
    • Roll towards scalp
  • Ensure even tension when wrapping
  • Place rod close to scalp without causing discomfort

Using perm solution

• Apply barrier cream around the hairline to protect the skin.
• Applying perm solution
  
  • Wear gloves when using perm solution
  • Saturate hair with perm solution
  • Ensure even distribution of perm solution
• Process hair
  
  • Place plastic cap over hair (if needed)
    
    • Maintain warmth
    • Aid in processing
  • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the processing time, typically between 10-20 minutes.
  • Perform a strand test by unwrapping a rod to check the curl formation.
  • Monitor the hair to avoid over-processing, which can lead to damage.

Neutralising

• Rinse hair
• After the processing time, rinse the hair thoroughly with warm water while the rods are still in place.
  
  • This removes the perm solution.
• Gently blot the hair with a towel to remove excess water, but do not remove the rods.
• Apply a neutraliser
  
  • Reform the bonds: Apply the neutralizer to the rods, ensuring that each section is thoroughly covered.
  • Processing time: Leave the neutralizer on for the time specified in the instructions, typically around 5-10 minutes.

Complete perm

• Remove the rods
  
  • Unwarp gently without pulling on hair.
• Dry hair
  
  • Pat Dry: Gently pat the hair dry with a towel.
    
    • Avoid rubbing, as this can disturb the curl pattern.
  • Air Dry or Diffuse: Allow the hair to air dry or use a diffuser on a low heat setting to maintain the curls.